TOPIC: GIVEAWAY ON THE BAY!!!

Hello my fellow glassers today is YOUR lucky day!

Up for grabs is a beautiful cursed old 35 Horse RD-19. Its got a brand spanking new electric starter(1 fishing trip), a new rebuilt pull starter assy, a new water pump (about 14 hours), new old stock clutch dogs (about 14 hours too) and new plugs (been installed but never ran).

This good old classic outboard runs GREAT when started on land. If you put this old girl in a barrel or hook it up to water while the boat is on land she's guaranteed to fire up on the 2nd or 3rd pull. Or even quicker with the electric starter. Hell you can even put the boat in the water and start her up while she is tied up to the docks and usually get the same results. Fire it up and cruise 5 or 6 miles from port though and its a different story all together. I think she's got a fear for deep water or something because sometimes she just dies. And no amount of prayers, starting fluid, new plugs, curse words is going to get this baby started when she is scared. Get a tow back into port, load her back on the trailer and put it in a barrel and she'll start right back up for you. But I can tell you from experience that this 1950's gem is in fact a woman, because if that aint enough she's got no consistency. Yesterday I fired it up cruised out and trolled for 9 and a half hours with hardly a hiccup. Its kinda like fishing, you just never know what you are going to get.

SOOOO if YOU need a little excitement in your life come pick this old gal up. She come FREE of charge. Complete with 3 pressure tanks, an extra spun prop and maybe some new controls. May I reiterate that this whole package is FREE. You'll pay for it later trying to keep it running and possibly with your life when you are out on the water and she decides to quit on you but HEY. live a little, take some chances and add this fine piece of american made equipment to your collection.


Feel free to contact me for location and times to pick it up.

Thanx
Andre

Interesting post

I'd gladly take it off your hands if you were w/in 4-5r drive 1way from me.

IF you really want to get rid of it, and are east of the Mississippi, you can reach me thru the forum email option

John

john, I think he is from Washington, and too far away from me also. frog

Yep.

I'm in Washington. On the Olympic Peninsula. About an hour and a half from Seattle.

HellCat,

Too bad that you are so FAR from south TX.

yours, satx

Well satx. I do get an 85% discount on LTL shipments through work

Maybe the Doc has room for a stray JohnRude! I sent him an email in case he didn't see this.........ed

here is a quick update on this guys.

After a rather extensive conversation with my Tito Eddy, you may know him as Eduardo he has convinced me to give the old motor one last chance before getting rid of it. After describing to him in detail what the problems were he recommended that I replace the coil, points and condenser. I'll just go ahead and get new plug wires and replace any wiring I can see while I am in there.

I'll post some pics when I get the flywheel off and show you guys what I find.

For now I am going to relinquish my offer. But I am still convinced that it is cursed so stay tuned

Hellcat,

May I suggest that you:
REBUILD the carbs,
REPLACE the plug wires, both coils (Do NOT trust used coils, regardless of how they LOOK.) , sparkplugs, condensors & the water pump impeller.
DRAIN/FLUSH the foot & REPLACE the lubricant
and
IF there are signs of "chocolate milkshake", RESEAL the foot.

I'd bet that work solves the problems & "lifts the curse".

I believe that EVERY "as found" BIG TWIN needs ALL of that done.

just my OPINION & BEST WISHES, satx

Most Definitely if you haven't replaced the coils, and they haven't been renewed in the past, they'll cause problems.

The old insulation gets hot and breaks down, then she don't spark. If the coils are cracked at all, or just oozing goopy material, they're shot. I've had many of these that run like a swiss watch with a set of new coils and a Tune-Up Kit.

An automobile-style harmonic balancer puller along with some Grade 8 1/4-20 puller bolts will yank that flywheel lickety-split. Be sure to properly torque the flywheel bolt upon reassembly, otherwise it'll shear the flywheel key. Guaranteed!!

G'luck, hope that fixes 'er up so you can have a reliable ride....ed

Satx & Ed thanks for the advise.

I pulled the flywheel just about 15 minutes ago. I didnt have a 3 jaw gear puller big enough so I used a piece of flat iron and a pair of C-Clamps and she popped right off.

But for the Nitty Gritty-
here are a few pic of what it looks like underneath. Im not sure if this looks good or bad. but I'll just plan on replacing it all anyway.

The only think that stuck out to me as particularly odd is the flywheel key. It has an odd jog in it. Is this what they look like right before they break or is this just how they did them?


Satx- what do you mean by chocolate milkshake? Where would i see signs?

Thanks for all your help guys


Andre

HellCat,

Like I said, "your coils, points, plugs, wiring & impeller" need replacing BAD. = I'd bet that your "curse" is BAD coils, that "break down" after a few minutes of running.

yours, satx

HellCat wrote:

Is this what they look like right before they break..........?

Oh, Yeah! That flywheel key was about ready to shear, fer sur!!! That's what happens when the flywheel nut isn't properly torqued down (or sometimes hitting a log!).

Time for a new key, new coils, and new points/condensers. Set the points so a feeler gage drags thru them just a tad loosely, at .022" (it'll run better that way).

Take note of how the coil laminations fit flush with the posts sticking out of the magneto plate; be sure the new coils are set the same way, so the flywheel doesn't drag on them.

Seen coils like that a Jillion times, they're always bad. It's a miracle she ran at all, let alone for the 9-or-so intermittant hours you got!

I'll bet you'll notice a diff in how she starts & idles, when you're done. Besides will probably run now without dying on ya.

Cheers.......ed

Yup, like been said, all needs replaced.

As an FYI, I strongly advise doing one side at a time, or keep this picture with you when replacing coils/points. It's easier than you may think to screw up ...don't ask me how i know that .

That motor will hum after you replace all that - throw in a carb rebuild as SATX suggested (easier to do than you might think), and it will sing!

Have Fun

HellCat,

Btw, IF you don't already have a copy, get/read a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS, the BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO MAKING AN OLD MOTOR RUN FOREVER by Max Wawrzyniak.
(Many public libraries have copies & Amazon.com usually has good used copies from 5-10.oo = I paid 5 bucks for my copy.)

You need NOT be "a mechanic" to work on a Big Twin. - IF you had to be a mechanic, I couldn't do it.

Note: You can replace all the parts that I suggested for about 100 bucks, with SIERRA parts from your local NAPA auto parts store.
(I'm too much of a cheapskate to pay "marine dealer" prices, when Sierra has perfectly serviceable parts for about half the price.)

just my OPINIONS, satx

Or I will come over from Anacortes and take it off your hands

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'll try and get these parts on order and I will keep you posted.

Is the flywheel key a special size or can I just go pick one up at the hardware store?

I'd imagine the factory key is a lot harder than most you could get at the local hardware, it'd be better to get the real thing. You wouldn't want a wimpy flywheel key to shear when you're out on the Canal!!

Check www.marineengine.com and see if they stock it......ed


Edit: fixed the link, didn't have enough "e"'s in it!

If marineengine doesn't have it, get the part# from the engine diagrams (I don't buy all my parts from them, but I ALWAYS start there and use their diagrams and parts lists).

Use google and search for the part# online. If it doesn't turn up, try adding a zero to the front of the original part# and search again. Once BRP bought them out, they use the added zero for their part#'s.

Good luck

Had a little more time after going to the dentist to get a hole drilled in my head! Reminds me of drilling-out busted manifold bolts on a Merc!!!! :0 His drill was a lot smaller, though!

Here's your crankshaft diagram:

www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1957&hp=35&model=RD-19&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Crankshaft+Group

And here's your part, "0302602 - KEY":

www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0302602

Here's a new one on eBay for $7.88 shipped:



HTH.........ed

So I got in new parts yesterday and I just installed them tonight with no hiccups. I primed it and gave it 1 pull and it started right up.

I'm going to get it out on the water Saturday and really find out how she is doing, but I just wanted to say thanks to you guys for the pointers and the advice.

Andre

HellCat,

WELCOME to the ranks of BIG TWIN ADDICTS. = Those pre 1970 2-bangers are so over-engineered as to be almost ridiculous.

As an example, my 1st cousin once borrowed my old Lone Star with 30HP Johnny to go crappie fishing. - I had reminded him that the 6 gallon tank was nearly empty & needed fuel. - When he got home about 7PM, he said, "You outa look at that motor as it runs REALLY, REALLY HOT." = He had just filled up the tank with >5 gallons of plain gas!

Fwiw, once it cooled off the next day, I filled it up with 20/1 mix & "crossing my fingers" tried to start the OB. It started right up & smoothed out fine. = When I traded the Lone Star off several years later, the old Big Twin was still running fine.
(Try that with another 2-cycle OB!!!)

NOTE: Nothing built by man can be made "idiot-proof", as idiots are so INGENIOUS!

yours, satx

satx78247 wrote:

HellCat,

WELCOME to the ranks of BIG TWIN ADDICTS. = Those pre 1970 2-bangers are so over-engineered as to be almost ridiculous.

Indeed they are! And after all the new motors have dissolved into dust, the old Johnrudes will still be out there purring away!!!