TOPIC: How to fix this?

I just purchased a 1969 Hourston Glascraft with a 1969 Mercury 650 and after getting it home I noticed that one of the transom clamps on the motor has pierced the fiberglass on the transom. I need to repair this but is that enough or should I be putting a piece of stainless plate over the area to stop this from happening in the future?

Thanks in advance

my guess is you need a complete transom replacement....john

crowsnestflyfisher,

WELCOME ABOARD.

Also, redfishpirates is CORRECT. = It's very likely time to pop-off the deck & replace the transom & all the other wood from stem to stern as it's likely ALL rotten, then patch the transom skin & the re-paint or re-gelcoat the entire hull.
(Then replace the plywood sole & carpet.)

There's (unfortunately) NO shortcut to re-modeling/restoring a Glassic.

just my OPINION, satx

I would guess the wood is decaying inside there. Best thing is too replace.

Well thanks for the replies. I did do the tap test and rocked on the motor to check for movement and everything seemed tight but it is over 40 years old.

Pull the motor and inspect the hole.Next I would take a 1/8" drill sample and see if its dry,along with removing if possible all through transom ftg and screws to check the wood in that area.If the rest of the transom passes the sound test then I would seal the hole and use a 1/4" aluminum plate/plywood/mud flap etc for the pads [which need to be replaced] to land on.Is that motor bolted on as well ?

Yes motor is bolted on.
I took a closer look today by taking the stainless trim along top of transom partially off. I discovered that the skin on the top and skin on the transom are not one piece so it allows water to go in from top of transom. Screws on top indicated it was soft near the motor but more solid by the edges. The bottom of transom by stringers seems very solid.

So now that i have to repair this transom, in order to get to it I would have to remove the entire top half of the boat. Is there an easier way say for example cutting the top fiberglass at each side just before the splash well and removing only that piece giving me open access to back of boat, then reinstalling after transom repair and re fiberglasing the top together again? Hard to explain that idea so hope that came out right

TIA

Yes you can, but many avoid it because it puts the cuts (and the repair) on the topsides of the cap (top of boat) where it's significantly more visible then it would be if you take the cap off.

Like this:


I'd just pick somewhere away from inside curves and complicated compound curves. That ^^^ pix has the cut made thru the vent holes that will get covers, so they will help hide the repair.

Good luck

That's exactly what I mean. I plan on painting the boat so the repair will get covered eventually. The reason I am avoiding removing the entire top is because the fasteners for the rub rail have to be removed from the inside of these boats.

If it is to much work removing the deck or cutting the deck why don't you just cut the back of the transom on the outside leaving a 1"border around the edge so you can have something to glass to after you replace the wood.just a idea but it might work.The other easier way is get someone else to do it.hihihi

I thought about cutting out just the back but was concerned if It would compromise the entegrity of the boat?

last one i helped with,, we made our cut in just front of the splash well so as to cut down on the patch in.. just 2 small sections.. removing the complete cap was just out of the question for my friend..

So finally got a chance to look over the new boat a little more today and after jumping on the motor and checking for flex and tapping transom with a hammer all seems solid. The seats have come loose from the floor so I will have to repair that but floor seems solid as well, some of the glass has worn off the floor since 1969. I removed the one motor mount that I thought had punctured the transom and was happy to find that It only went threw the splash well and under there was a nicely fiberglassed transom. Also I removed some of the screws on the top sill and tried to push a sharp point into the transom but was solid. For me good news. Means I can actually use the boat this year for a bit instead of tearing it down over the summer in the driveway. I may take a couple of samples from the bottom of the transom from the inside but all looks well.