TOPIC: clear fuel vs regular fuel

I have been searching for answers on the net an d i am still a little confused. I know regular fuel has ethenaol and it can seperate and cause rust if allowed to set for a long period of time. Other then this is there other benifits to running clear fuel vs pump gas in our older 2 stroke moters?

It's not just the separation that causes problems papasmurf, the alcohol actually eats away at any rubber parts in the fuel system that aren't "new age" and specifically designed to handle it. This includes fuel lines, primer bulbs, fuel pump diaphragms, carb parts, etc.......

The octane rating is also reduced when ethanol is mixed with it, so often power output is effected as well. Mileage is not as good with ethanol (10%, I have no experience with E85 thankfully!) so you'll burn more of it!

I'm not a chemist or an expert, just sharing my experience because you asked.

Ditto what Mark said. And even with the "new" rubber, after 3-4 years good idea to change as they go bad also. If you can get it, I would def, go with non-ethanol if not a big price difference.

When we switch here in NY to ethanol, my gas mileage went down 10-15%, as an FYI

The issue of whether to ethanol or not has been around for some time. I was advising people on this as far back as the mid 90's. The truth is ethanol has been in gasoline since the 70's. Remember the gas shortage of the late 70's and the advent of gasohol? Gasohol is just 10% ethanol, exactly what every one is ranting about now. I have used ethanol in my 1972 Merccruiser with no issues. But the secret is to not let the fuel stand for long periods, that is, months at a time, like winter storage. Some components on old engines are affected by alcohol. Most of these are gaskets and fuel lines. Replace the gaskets and fuel lines with new and the problem no longer exists. As for phase separation, the separating of alcohol and gas in the tank, it occurs if the gas is allowed to stand. So if you are going to store the boat, empty the tanks. I store my boat and my O/B kicker with empty tanks and all fuel drained from the lines and carburetor. Here is a link to some info on ethanol. [url=http://http://newboatbuilders.com/docs/Ethanol.pdf]http://newboatbuilders.com/docs/Ethanol.pdf[/url]

As for the tank, corrosion occurs when water collects in metal tanks. When phase separation occurs, the alcohol forms a separate layer below the gas. Alcohol attracts moisture. This forms below the alcohol. At the line of separation there are also present some acids that accelerate the corrosion. Aluminum tanks can corrode through over about a 6 month period (winter storage) and steel is faster, but most people have aluminum tanks. About 50% of newer boats have plastic tanks (polyethylene) which does not corrode. My boat had the tank replaced long before I bought it and now has a plastic tank.

If you want to use gas without ethanol there are a few places that sell it. pure-gas.org — lists stations that sell it by state

And even with the "new" rubber, after 3-4 years good idea to change as they go bad also.

The USCG, The American Boat And Yacht Council (ABYC), SAE, and other safety and standards organizations have always recommended that critical components such as fuel hose, and fuel pump diaphragms be replaced at least every five years. These components do not last forever. Also, the standards for the construction and materials in these components are updated about every five years to keep abreast of new technology and new compounds in the fuels. So this is good advice in any case.

papasmurf,

Check out TallTexan's method of removing the alcohol from "pump gas" IF you cannot find the gas W/O alcohol (as I cannot within reasonable driving distance of "home") as vintage OB & alcohol-blends just aren't a good fit.

just my OPINION, satx