TOPIC: Trailering latch on old johnson???

My son recently purchased an old boat, (Pipestone Apache)with a 1979 Johnson 70 HP outboard. 70EL79R, if I recall correctly.
The steering on the motor seems to be completely frozen.
With the cable detached from the motor, the steering wheel and cable operate freely, but the motor appears to be locked to the port side.

Someone mentioned that on some of the older outboards, there was a latch to keep the motor locked in place when being trailered.
Before we tear into this thing, is there a latch that I am not seeing?

I have read a few posts in forums that spoke of removing the zerk fittings and getting penetrating oil into the shaft area, but it sure would be nice to just unlatch something!!! :o)

Thanks in advance

Mike

Trail lock lever is Part #55


But it's to lock the motor down against the transom (sort of the reverse of power tilt) NOT to lock the steering function. It should be spring loaded and is attached to the front of the outboard. It latches over the adjustable Thrust rod assembly (Part #52) that many call the tilt pin.

That OB has a tilt tube steering set up ( Part #38 , so the end of the steering cable should have a rod attached to it. When you operate the wheel does the rob move in & out of the end of the steering cable?

The steering rod has to slide in & out of the starboard side of the OB's tilt tube if the boat sat for a long time unused, it's not surprising if the steering rod is frozen in the tilt tube.

Thanks for your reply with information.
I have been super busy at work, and just getting back to this. :o(

It IS frozen in the tube. We have removed all of the zirk fittings that we can find, and have started to spray Seafoam Deep Creep into all the orifices.
I really don't want to remove the motor from the transom and start tearing it apart. Other than spraying lots of penetrant, and waiting, are there any suggestions for a "stuck steering tube"?

Mike

I think you're going in the right direction. Lots of old grease turns waxy, add a little dirt, sand, time and it will harden up. I use PB Blaster but I think just about any penetrant will work. If you can get it to move just a fraction it's a good sign. Gradually work it back and forth a smidgeon at a time and keep it wet with the penetrant. Put some paper/cardboard or something under the motor cuz the junk will start to flow out once you get it freed up.
Good luck.
Cal

Thanks Cal. I will keep at it.
If we take the steering rod off, we are able to turn the motor slightly, by sheer force, so I am confident that it is not completely frozen.
I will report back when I have it free.

Thanks again
Mike

as an FYI, although quite messy, many folks swear by a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone. haven't tried it yet, but know 2 guys that swear by it.

whatsleft wrote:

as an FYI, although quite messy, many folks swear by a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone. haven't tried it yet, but know 2 guys that swear by it.

Keep in mind that acetone will remove any paint it comes in contact with, as well as destroy rubber components such as seals.

I've used that mix and it does work. Mostly for soaking old tools that are rusted and need some movement. For convenience it's easier to use a commercial product. My opin.
Cal

if you are soakin a 70 year old motor to get some movement....fine...for small stuff...just use a fiz can of whats on sale....keep it simple and the mess down...john

Heat can help, too. As long as the unit isn't completely doused in flammables! I've used a propane torch to heat up pivot tubes. That does two things. It partially melts old grease, plus the aluminum of the outer housing will expand more than the steel of the pivot/tiller assembly, allowing things to get moving a bit.

rbenji298,

WELCOME ABOARD.

yours, satx

newmaac,

WELCOME ABOARD.

yours, satx