TOPIC: Pulling flywheel on 61 Johnson, doing it wrong?

I've got most of the major components of the 61 seahorse pulled apart off of the main engine, as long as the part stock holds out I'll be ordering a new head and pistons for it. However I'm stalled at the moment on the project because I cannot for the life of me get the flywheel of the top of the motor. As you can see in the picture I have a flywheel puller I've got the correct size marine grade bolts working on it, I've torque it down and let it sit under pressure with liquid wrench even around the drive shaft, nothing helps and I'm afraid that if I keep cracking on it I'll either snapp a bolt or destroy the flywheel. Is there something I'm not thinking of, underneath the flywheel that needs to be unscrewed?

www.dropbox.com/s/jijkiachhwg1361/IMG_20140706_181431.jpg

First for safety put the nut back on down far enough that the puller still pushes on the shaft.

Pull down like you have it, and then get a torch and heat the fly wheel up....not hot enough to burn you if you touched it but where you do not want to lay your hand on it long.

If it still will not come loose see if the puller loosen up with the heat. if so tighten back up.

If that fails while it is still hot, put a pry bar under the flywheel and lift some. Not a lot for all you want to do is keep from driving the crank down when you hit it with a hammer.

Now hit the flywheel with a hammer...not real hard for all you want to do is send vibrations through the metal as to see if it will help break things loose.....just kinda of pinging it over and over

Torches are dangerous for that, think of what's underneath.

Put the torque on the bolt like you have, remove the wrench and socket and whack the top of the push down bolt with a solid hammer...hard. You should get a ping/pop and then it's free

thanks for the input guys, I first tried just the hammer and puller trick and got nowhere, just got back from Home Depot getting a torch, heat it up for about 3 minutes, crank down on the puller and it popped right off. theres rust where the key is, so I assume that's what was binding it up. Appricate it guys.

If you do not heat it up hotter then you can stand with your hand you will not cause any problem under the wheel.(lay your hand on top of a flywheel after the motor has been running hard for about an hr)

If you hit the flywheel without lifting up on the flywheel with a pry bar or screwdriver you can do damage to the crank, bearings, and/or block

oliverthomasart,

May I gently ask: As CHEAP as 40HP Johnnyrudes are, WHY aren't you replacing the whole power-head to a '62 or later model? OR just using your current OB as a parts motor? = I would think that either option would be cheaper than rebuilding your current OB.
(The 1960-61 Johnnyrudes are NOT known for durability, as they are overstressed inasmuch as they are a bored out 25HP outboard. - The 1962 40HP is MUCH stronger & far better designed.)

just my OPINION, satx

Tall, I always have a tendency to over do things. I probably would have melted the aluminum
Just glad he used your advice and got the problem solved.
Cal

reminds me of back in the late 60's....guess I'm just too old...people told me {my god, that 283 doesn't have 4 bolt mains}...it will blow clean up just driving it to the movies and the store!!

Rust does not hold the flywheel on tight.

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These are locking tapers.--When the nut is torked the flywheel is pushed down and the taper expands and now grabs the crank taper.

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Some need a bump from a hefty hammer to pop them off.

By all means, educate me on the process? 62+ heads just a part swap? Or are we talking using whole different components? Somewhere I can read up on it?

The later 40 HP motor had a heftier crankshaft.

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You would need to do a complete powerhead swap.----May require some modifications depending on if you get hot water choke or hot air choke set-up.

redfishpirates,

Pardon me for pointing out that the 283 Chevy was NOT "completely redesigned" by "Government Motors" imply because its crankshaft kept breaking in normal use. Furthermore, automobile engines are NOT routinely run at WOT.

yours, satx

oliverthomasart,

Fwiw, my neighbor bought a 1963 FORTY HP Johnny (to power his 1963 Glastron ski-boat) for 35.oo less than 3 weeks ago that, with new condensers/points/plugs/plug wires/water pump impeller, now runs FINE.

Jack told me Saturday that he now has 155.oo in the engine including its purchase price. He still plans to repaint & put new decals on his OB. ======> PRETTY CHEAP for powering a ski rig if you ask me!!!

Note: I'm "considering" a 1963 SeaKing 40 (that seems OK) & will likely buy it for 50 bucks, when the lady who owns it gets back home from holiday.

just my opinion, satx