TOPIC: Gale 40 - no spark- frustrated!!

OK, on other gale, I get no spark. I have already done the following:

Replaced points and condensers

Set points via OMC tool and continuity light as shown in various books

Set points manually as per my fading memory of the old chevy's (rotate cam until points are at max opening, set gap (020), tighten)

Disconnected cut out (even tho I believe it only affect the lower) under both scenarios above.

I am going to now change the coils, although I can't believe both are bad.

I vaguely remember tuning the engine up years ago, and then not being able to get it started - thats when I got other motor to use before getting the 24 footer in the water, winterizing these and putting them away until I worked on the glasspar.

Does it make a difference on the coil which of the 2 screws on top are used? I thought they were both just grounding?

Anyway, any suggestions are welcome. I thought at this point I'd have sanded the cockpit and be staining the teak. Frustrating!!

Old Johnrudes have a thing about coils, I couldn't possibly count how many bad ones I've replaced over the years.

If your Gale's ign coils are cracked or oozing material, they're bad, period. Usually seen in the original coils with brownish-translucent type of insulation.

Doesn't matter where the ground wire goes, although I usually put it on the inner of the (2) screws on that side of the coil.

Thankfully OMC used these coils for many years and there are Jillions of them out there! If you have a NAPA nearby, they may even have a Sierra replacment in stock. Any OMC dlr in the area worth their salt should have the OEM coil in stock as well.

OMC P/N: 0584477

Sierra Marine P/N: 18-5181

iBoats has a pretty decent sale going on right now for the Sierra coil, $18.89:

www.iboats.com/Ignition-Coil-for-Johnson-Evinrude-582995-584477-Mercury-Mariner-802371A1-GLM-72100-Sierra/dm/view_id.187561

Marineengine.com sells OEM and aftermarket coils, too:

www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=0584477&x=10&y=13

HTH..........ed

Ditto on the coils. Also, don't get NOS ones, get the newer production ones (usually light green) It may be that the primary leads have shorted together under the magneto plate. Pull the flywheel back off. Remove the leads from each set of points. With a test light, or a voltmeter /continuity tester, you need to check the wires that run from the points to the cutout, and to the kill switch / wiring harness (if it has one) Be sure the connections at both ends of the two wires are free & not touching anything else. With the tester check to see if either wire is shorted to ground (engine block) then check to see if there is continuity (shorted) between the 2 wires. Both wires should have no continuity between each other, ground.

Thanks Gents. I know I have at least one green coil, and might have 2, will check in AM. Bruce, didn't realize about the wiring, will pull all in AM and check for continuity per your directions. And as to my other post on the lever, will take pic and post part number tomorrow also. My parts book is out in garage along with everything else!

Thanks again for the replies guys, I was at my wits end, nice to have some other avenues to pursue!

Best,

Al T

I am officially at wits end. Did all as suggested, still no spark. At this point I will order another set of new coils AND wires, replace, and see what happens.

This is too simple a system for me to have this much trouble. I switched out a V8 '88 OMC cobra points system with an '86 mercruiser thunderbolt electronic ignition system that ran like a top for 3 years that took me less time to adjust and fine tune than this!

Need to walk away from this for a while - too many other projects on back burner that I need to get done.

Thanks again for the help, will update once I work on them again. I think I'll also take off the pull start and flywheel of the working motor and compare everything. I know it has to be something stupid, I guess I'm just not smart enough to see how stupid I am being!!

Thanks again folks. Happy Memorial Day!

whatsleft,

Just because the points, plugs, condensors, plug wires, coils etc. LOOK OK and/or are NEW, does NOT mean that they are OK.
(I've gotten NEW coils that were BAD. Also, I recently bought a new 120.oo battery that had a DEAD CELL.)

One at a time, I would CAREFULLY INSPECT TEST every component, if it was my OB. = Could be a BAD ground or a wire with an "intermittent open", too.

just my opinion, satx

Thanks SATX,

I do realize new doesn't = working all the time, but i have already put a significant amount of time into this, and need to get it done. I am way behind schedule already!

I went online and ordered all OEM stuff, and am just going to replace all the elements on the magneto. If it soesn't work then, obviously something is wired wrong. I should be able to get some spark, but since I get no spark on either cylinder, I am just going to start from scratch.!

Best,

Al