TOPIC: 70 hp EV questions

I just got back from Texas picking up a 1976 EV 70HP from my brother (and visiting my family in Round Rock and Brownwood). I am putting it on a 1970 VIP 16' bow rider tri hull.
The motor has no prop or prop mounting hardware (Brother took those to replace the spun prop on his I/O). What size prop would be a good starting place. I have been looking at the props online and they list from 12-15 inch diam and 13-... for the pitch. I also need to find the mounting h/w.

Second question is what is the best way to drill the mounting holes and fill in the old ones? The original motor is a 1964 EV Lark IV 40 HP selectric. It was mounted with a screw clamp and 2 screws on the bottom. The 70hp has a little lip and 4 large mounting bolts.

I also picked up the Tach from the old bass boat the 70 was on my Grand Nephew cut all the wiring so I don't know where the wirng went. I know the s connection goes to the control box but I don.t know where the other wires go to.

15 pitch if it's heavy or will carry more than two people or skiing/tubing,17 pitch if only a couple riders out for a cruise. Rough guess, but should be close.

I have a 17' Tri Hull @ 1200 lbs. boat only.
I went from a 15 (4600 RPM) to a 13 (5500 rpm)
Tried a 17 before the tach, it was miserable. Try the 15 to start.

Tach wiring only needs the gray from the control box and gnd.
Other wires may be back lighting.
Post a pic of it to be sure.

Thanks I am ordering a 13 3/8 X 15 prop. I found out It isn't an EV it is a Johnson. I found this out when trying to order a prop there were various spline counts for the 1976 Evinrude 70HP triple. So I went looking for the mpdel no. and finally found it as a 70El76D.
What hardware do I need to mount it? I know i need a Prop nutbut what else? In looking at the diagrams there is a spacer washer 0315810
SPACER,Prop.nut
0314503
NUT,Propeller
0384977
PROP.BUSHING ASSY.
Do I need all three or just the spacer and the nut?

Evinrude / Johnson are the same motor except for the colour of the paint , at least in those years.--Spline counts are all the same, not sure where you found out there were different ones in those years !!

I found listings for small gearcase and large gearcase as well as for comercial 70 hp 3 cyliders


70 HP
Thru 1983Johnson 70 HP
Thru Hub Exhaust & 13 Tooth Spline Small Gearcase


70 HP
1974 & NewerJohnson 70 HP, 3-Cyl., Includes 4-Stroke, Pleasure
Thru Hub Exhaust & 13 Tooth Spline Large Gearcase


70 HP
2004 & NewerJohnson 70 HP, E-TEC
Thru Hub Exhaust & 13 Tooth Spline Large Gearcase


70 HP
1998 & NewerJohnson 70 HP, 4-Stroke
Thru Hub Exhaust & 13 Tooth Spline


70 HP
1974 - 2001
and one place called for 14 tooth.
The main difference was the small gearcase called for smaller diameter props. I called my brother he said it is the same gearcase as his I/o and the v4. I was worried about ordering too large a diameter if I had the small gearcase.
Has anyone ever used the Solace Amitas or Rubex props.
I have been spending the day putting the 40 Hp lark back together so I can remove it from the boat.

59Hustler wrote:

Has anyone ever used the Solace Amitas or Rubex props.

I have a Solas Amita 3 (13x19) I bought for the Starflite a few years back, it's now a back-up and used for pulling water toys. They're a pretty good prop for the money, (off-season sales they're around 89.99 and free shipping). If you don't mind shopping Ebay you can often find a genuine OMC (BRP) prop (new) for similar money.

I ended up buying a Turning point Hustler 13 3/4X15 from I boats as it came with all of the mounting hardware for only 7.99 additional and ended up cheaper than the Amita 3 it even had 2 day free shipping.
I fremoved the 40Hp Lark today and will install the Johnson tomorrow. I have my choice of 2 control units a Gale twin stick control that came off an old glastron on my property in Texas and a single control unit from the bass boat the one off the bass boat has no cables. Do you think it is possible to wire the switch on the dash from th 40 to the 70 and use the twin stick Gale control.

The 13P I bought is a Solas.

I received my new Hustler prop ( hey i am Keeping the "Hustler alive in my boats) It is a thing of beauty.
On filling the old mounting holes has anyone used JB "Water Weld" for this?

You'll have to let us know how the new prop works out. Maybe share some pics with us on the "performance report"?

I believe the "tried and true" method for filling unused mounting bolt holes is to slather some resin in the hole and drive a wooden dowel of the appropriate size into the hole. (Soaking the dowel in resin would also be a good idea.) Then you can re-finish the area to make the hole disappear, hopefully. Epoxy resin would probably be preferred by most, I'm told it's more water proof than polyester resin. I've not tried the JB Water Weld, so I can't really comment on that.

Thanks I ended up using marine epoxy, dowls and 5200.

Next question control cables. Atre the cables used between the two remotes the same. I ordered type 400 cables as the motor is a pre-79. However after googling some more they show the 479 cable for the Johnson single lever remote.