TOPIC: Hand pull compression for a '56 lark?

Hey all,
Great forum, SO MUCH great info here, it would take a month of reading to get through just the recent posts.

I bought a '60 Starcraft Rocket, '56 Lark 30hp, and the trailer for $100. For that price, why not!

I started working on the boat, then realized I didn't LOVE the boat enough to put the cash into it to restore it. Glass supplies alone were going to be more than the boat would be worth. So it's sitting there ready for new glass. The old transom and floor are out, and the glass is ground, ready for new layers. Anyone want it for free, it's yours.

I'll be selling the windshield and steering setup once they're cleaned up. The windshield is in great condition.

So I'm on to working on the motor. I put a compression gauge on the cylinders and I'm getting 60psi when I hand pull. I haven't hooked up a battery to check and see if it will be any better with the starter. (Right now I don't have a spare 12v battery.)

Is 60psi too low to bother working on the motor?


Thanks.
B

bad coffee,

WELCOME ABOARD.

Wishing that you were near here, as I'd like to have that rig, even though that Lark should have 100# of compression on both cylinders.

yours, satx

I can't remember if the Lark 30 has a compression release or not. I have 3 of them outside, but I don't want to go look. Pathetic. Anyway, if there are little springs and valve stems next to the sparkplugs, it has a compression release. If it has a compression release, disable it & try testing again. Pull the hand starter through 4 or 5 pulls per hole before taking the reading.

Does your engine happen to have the chromed metal door that closes over the carb controls and the pull cord?

Compression release did not come out till 1957. You presser is a bit low, however high enough to get it running, Once you run it a bit 98% of the time the pressure will come up.

Unless it has already been done you will need to replace the coils.

You can use a 12 v battery to start the motor, Just do not use the elect choke and starter solenoid till you install a resistor in line with them as not to burn them out.

I did have the part # for a resistor however that comp is giving me problems right now.

Bruce Gerard wrote:

Does your engine happen to have the chromed metal door that closes over the carb controls and the pull cord?

Yep! It's in okay shape (pic below.) Pretty faded, and someone cut a chunk out of the top of it for some reason. Also, the shift cable clamp looks like it broke out of the motor housing, and they drilled new holes for it not once but twice.

I'll find a battery this week and crank it over and see what it does. Need to get the rust out of the old pressure tank and put in a new gasket.

TallTexan wrote:

Unless it has already been done you will need to replace the coils.

You can use a 12 v battery to start the motor, Just do not use the elect choke and starter solenoid till you install a resistor in line with them as not to burn them out.

I did have the part # for a resistor however that comp is giving me problems right now.

I'm pulling the flywheel this week, currently it's not getting any spark. I'm betting it's all toast. The plug wires look okay, but who knows how long they've been on the motor. The solenoid is a solid chunk of rust, and the guy bought a 12v car one to use. I'm hoping he didn't toast the starter and choke when he tried to get it running. I noticed the choke boot is torn, and never put 2 and 2 together.

Does the resistor go between the battery and the starter, or just the battery and the choke?

I have the original two push-button panel for the electric start, but the solenoid/junction box is gone. The two lever shift/throttle is in decent shape, but the cables need some lube. Currently they're hanging up and some PB Blaster gets squirted on the top whenever I remember.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Somebody needs to take this boat so I don't have to chop it up and take it to the dump. Or they can pay me to fix it for them. I've got some free time. . .

The resistor goes between the coils. It is a low amp resistor. If the starter solenoid is bad you be best to replace it with a 12v unit and just use the resistor for the choke. if the coke is bad then replace it with a 12v also.

the 6v started will work great on 12v. just do not spin for a long time with out cooling it between. something like 20 sec spinning 20 sec cooling

Someone has chopped the top of the front door off. It had a pointed area that covered the hole for the pull starter cord. You are lucky to have any of the door at all - most of the time they are missing.