TOPIC: FD-10 Carb, please help.

Thought I'd start a new thread, as I dont seem to be getting any anwers in my other thread.

I pulled my Carb last night off of my 1956 johnson 15 hp.

The area on the carb body where the gasket sits (between the body and float chamber) seems rough? It has lines through it like it has been machined or sanded. I've only worked on one other carb and it was a newer 4 stroke with smooth gasket surfaces. Is this normal for these older carbs or has someone done a "fix"? I have access to a bunch of motors so can probably find some parts if it's toast, but everything else has been looking good. Any comments??

How deep are the lines?

There are some machining marks left on some of the older motors,

The main reason for gaskets is to fill in the irregular areas, however too deep and a gasket will not work.

Was it holding before you took it apart

while you have it apart either replace the float with one that ethanol will not effect or coat it as to seal it from ethanol

Fuel proof model airplane dope will work (if you plan on restoring many motors) or covering it with supper glue

Cavu... You didin't have a Cdory at one time did you? The name and planes rings a bell. Anyway..not sure if the seal was holding as Ihaven't ran since it has been in my possesion. They are not too deep of lines, and only on the carb body side not the float chamber side. I guess just try new seals and see? I will take a pic and put it up before I assemble. Yeah ordereing a new float and spark plug leads today.

Ok, So dug in last night, and got all passages etc cleaned out. On the high and low speed needles I'm a little confused on the packing nuts. Do I use one as the packing nut and one as the packing washer? My rebuild kit didn't come with anything else and I can't tell from the diagrams and instructions I have handy now. Excited to bolt this thing back up and get into the lower unit and onto the test tank. Any help GREATLYappreciated!

Page 10

www.marineengine.com/parts/vintage-evinrude-johnson/376748/catalog.html?http://www.marineengine.com/parts/vintage-evinrude-johnson/376748/37674800001.htm

Mr. Texan you rock! Have my Cheap outboards book on way etc.. not here yet though. Looks like I did it correctly! Except I might be missing part #80(bushing) and I know I'm missing the filter element and nut.

lots of work to be done

Cutty_Sark wrote:

Mr. Texan you rock! Have my Cheap outboards book on way etc.. not here yet though. Looks like I did it correctly! Except I might be missing part #80(bushing) and I know I'm missing the filter element and nut.

Wished you would have saved your money and joined AOMCI's forum. It is free and a lot of knowledge.

www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl

Many of us have of motors that we have to part out and have the to sell and trade.

www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize

As for your bowl nut, You can get a small cup washer a nut the size of the threads and a washer and make it work. You will just need to take a tool with you to pull it down

To hold the filter in, I have gotten a cup washer too small for the bolt then drill and threaded it. Installed it dome up.....Hey it works

Thanks for the tip. i am having a blast working on these things so I think I will join up!

---

Carb finished and waiting on new float for final assembly. Pulled the lower unit and I am currently working on redoing all the seals since it had water in the oil, got the oil seal out under the water pump and cracked the gearcase open, having trouble getting the shift rod seal out, I see that is a more common problem. Any tips or where to find the tool?


But I just noticed I am getting what I think is too much fluid coming out of the crankcase into the exhaust stack area and just draining out. I sprayed some fogging fluid in the cylinders to keep everything lubed up as it will be moved a bit while I tinker. Seemed Like alot of it just came out, I looked way up in there with a light and it seems like ther is part of a gasket or O ring hanging right in the center around where the drive shaft inserts up at the top. Compression was good when I checked. I'm guessing there is some kind of a seal that gave. Can I try and run it first then pull the head off once confirmed it's a runner? I am going to pose this question in another forum or two as well. I am definitly glad I started with a practice motor instead of the Lark. Also went back to my father in laws outboard shed and found a frozen up johnson 18 HP, that I can use for some parts as I wanted to put a tiller on this, it was setup for remote before.

There is a special tool with a shoulder on it for driving out the shift bushing.

The way I've always done it, without a special tool, is to tap the brass bushing with a 5/16-24 tap. Once you have threads in the bushing, you can use a bolt to pull the bushing out of the gearcase. Or, screw a bolt into the bushing then drive out from the top using a pin punch. If I recall, on your motor the bushing is driven in from inside the gearcase. Larger motors have the bushing driven in from the outside and it's a bit easier to get at.

On the O-ring you're seeing at the end of the crankshaft, unless it's part of an old driveshaft O-ring that got hung up, it may be part of the carbon seal assy that serves as the lower crankshaft seal. It won't seal well without a proper O-ring, and may even leak compression.

The only way to fix this is to pull the powerhead, and it probably won't hurt to test-run it in a barrel once before tearing down to fix. But I wouldn't go boating with it until it's repaired.

The only down side to having problems with the lower crank seal, is that if the seal has been compromised for some time, the needle bearings on the crank may have sucked water in and rusted. If the powerhead doesn't make a lot of nasty noises when you run it, it's likely OK and fixing the carbon seal assy will take care of it.

Note that some motors had a standard-type lower oil seal vice carbon seal assy, so you may be seeing parts of that. Still requires powerhead removal to fix.

HTH & G'luck with the repairs.........ed