TOPIC: 5.5 1957 Evinrude fisherman

Picked up a pretty cherry 1957 Evinrude 5.5hp fisherman. Excellent even compression, clean, runs. I want to change the water pump but can't find how to release the shift rod. All my books only go back to 1964. Any help would be appreciated.

It doesnt work well via my cell, but have you looked for a manual at
boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

Awesome !! Great find !!

FWIW, I got a 61 5.5 Johnson. I know ya have to pull the powerhead. Not hard....6 bolts/nuts and up...

jbcurt00 wrote: It doesnt work well via my cell, but have you looked for a manual at
boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

How many times I have referred guys to that site and yet I still forget about it in a time of crisis. Thanks for the reminder.

Ya. Robby. I found that out. Gotta pull the powerhead to reach the pin that unhooks the shift shaft. Sheeesh.
Problem I found now is that every bolt came out easy EXCEPT the one that is the hardest to access. Middle one back side is frozen solid into the head. Beat it with a brass drift, can't fit a channel lock on it. I soaked it with PB Blaster and am going to let it sit overnight. If it's not loose by tomorrow I'll grind the screw head off and then heat the stub when the head is off. Just my luck I'll find that there's a new 'peller in there but the PO said it hasn't been run in three years so it's probably a little brittle. I did get it to run on a spray yesterday but don't want to push it. Already ordered a new impeller from Marineengine.com.

63 Sabre wrote: Ya. Robby. I found that out. Gotta pull the powerhead to reach the pin that unhooks the shift shaft. Sheeesh.
Problem I found now is that every bolt came out easy EXCEPT the one that is the hardest to access. Middle one back side is frozen solid into the head. Beat it with a brass drift, can't fit a channel lock on it. I soaked it with PB Blaster and am going to let it sit overnight. If it's not loose by tomorrow I'll grind the screw head off and then heat the stub when the head is off. Just my luck I'll find that there's a new 'peller in there but the PO said it hasn't been run in three years so it's probably a little brittle. I did get it to run on a spray yesterday but don't want to push it. Already ordered a new impeller from Marineengine.com.

Kind of what I thought. Had same prob mine (always the last bolt!). but I was yanking it for a rebuild the L/U. The impeller? LIKE NEW. Guess made stuff then was made.."forever". Heck, have 2 3hp "weedless", and both made 50's. On them? Check water? Pull the under cowling that looks like a L/U drain screw out running and stand back or get wet fast! Also those 5 1/2 HP's are simple "workhorse" motors! Also pop the flywheel and look the coils. Brown and cracked? Replace. New $20 ebay each. Polish the points. Got ya little fine motor dude! Wiish the best..

Thanks for the encouragement. I really needed a small workhorse for another two reasons.
1- When I take a rebuild project out for the first time it's always a crap shoot until I get back safe to the dock. This little baby will be an insurance policy.
2- I have a small natural pond in my back yard that needs to be turned. Just hanging this gem on the doc and running it will do the job.
Edit....I did manage to get the last screw out but had to grind it. Something to be said about not twisting on it, would have broken off in the block and then it's a drill and tap, (not fun). Easy peezie with a vice grip when there is 1" of stub to work with.
Now she sits on the table. Good opportunity to clean out the carb and install new fuel lines.
The impeller looked almost new, was soft but did take a set. Glad I did take a look at it thought, the PO used regular steel slot head screws to put the pump housing back together. I'll be picking up some SS hex's this week.

Great! Yep, easier to saw/grind it off and then easy with heat to pull when ya got something to grip!

Getting all the maintenance cleaned up. Pulled the flywheel to find this mess. Points are non existent, worn down to nothing. Coils are split and cracked and actually fell apart when I removed the screws. Already ordered a complete set of parts.
So far spent just under $90. for impeller and ignition parts. Still cheap for a solid good compression workhorse that will last another 60 years.

Kinda figured under the FW would be that. But amazing it still ran! Like said, real workhorse!

I didn't really "run" it per-se. just sprayed starter fluid into the carb and gave it a pull and it farted so I knew it would run. Good news is that the spark plugs are new and the lower doesn't leak. The original gas tank is clean inside, some rusty spots on the outside but the thing is HEAVY steel and the pressure pump still works.
Thanks for the help and encouragement. Should be all wrapped up by next weekend.

Got all the parts I needed yesterday from marineengine.com. coils, condensers, Points. Anyone know what the torque should be on the flywheel? I'm guessing around 80 ft lbs.

63 Sabre wrote: Got all the parts I needed yesterday from marineengine.com. coils, condensers, Points. Anyone know what the torque should be on the flywheel? I'm guessing around 80 ft lbs.

I can't recall for sure but 80 ft-lbs is way too much for a small crankshaft. Closer to 35-40 ft-lbs I'd reckon. Maybe you can find the appropriate manual with torque specs here:

boatinfo.no/

Yep! Just snug it up, box end wrench on and grab the FW and smack the wrench with a mallet. Done. Torque to much and distort and never get it off again. Never a prob me. Its not some 800 HP monster with a heavy FW.. and no diff than a simple lawn more engine. Don't over think it..

Found a manual....45-50 tops.
Robby, now take a close look at this and tell me why I'm not getting any spark on either plug.
Points are gapped at .020
Anything I can check with a meter?
I added a picture of the old setup that I took before removing. Is it possible I have the coils installed backa$$wards? I might be firing the wrong points at the wrong time?
UPDATE>>> I reversed all the wiring so it is back to the same position as the original and still no spark on either plug. I'm guessing something is shorting the system out. When the handle control is turned to the "stop" position that should be shorting out the coils? Where does this happen? Might be some insulation or gasket missing somewhere?
The new coils have a black and green wire. Is it possible that these could be reversed?

The green wires are hooked to the wrong set of points in the pics. The right coil should have its green wire connected to the top set of points and the left coil, to the bottom set.

Another issue you might have is the way the coil wires go into the new coils, is a bit different than the old coils. You have to make sure the wires penetrate far enough into the coil so that the center post inside pierces the wire for good contact.

Check the alignment of the coils; there's a special tool to set clearance to the flywheel. Without that tool you can get close by making sure the armature of each coil is flush with the machined portion of the mag plate where the coils sit. If the coils are mounted too far inwards you may not develop enough spark energy, and of course if they're too far out, they'll rub the flywheel.

Check your plug wires for abraded areas where they might short out to ground. Far as I recall there's no kill switch on these, you just chop throttle and choke to stop the engine.

HTH..........ed

Thanks Ed. I put it aside for a day or to so I can get a fresh perspective. I have the coil wires as you said now and the coils are flush with the base machined area. The only thing I didn't change were the plug wires so Monday I'll go to the local OMC dealer and get a few feet of solid core. Gettin' to the point where I can pull the top with my eyes closed, .... maybe that's the problem. I did get a weak spark from one of the plugs on the last try just by turning the flywheel with my ratchet wrench so I know there is some life somewhere. I'm not quittin', just taking a breather. Translation....Honey Do list is creeping up.

I was gonna say that when ya do stuff like that, just snug the FW nut, then spin it even my hand fast and check for spark. But guess ya knew that. Anyway, listen to Ed (mc) as he's the wizard! Ed, someday I'll run into ya at the "Docs"..(gotta stop and BS him soon) Be humbled to see the 2 "Wizards" at one time! Doc gotta get out the "Merc magic shoppe", and gets some sun! But love his (and yers) knowledge of .."the hell it can't be done"!
Have a great summer all !

Really helps to step back and reflect. Picked up 4.5 ft. of coppercore wire. $1.00 a foot so it was a cheap investment. As long as I had to take the whole shebang apart to replace the ignition stuff I cleaned all the baseplates etc. Put on the new wires, regapped the points and now there is spark on both cylinders. Now all I have to do is give it a try in the garbage can again.
Thanks for all the help.
Cal

IT RUNS!! Not perfect yet, have to adjust the carb settings but first need to replace the "o" rings in the fuel/air connector. Had to hold the gas line by the motor to keep it running. I need another arm and hand.