TOPIC: Generator output

How can I measure the output of the generator on the '65 60hp 'rude? Can I put a volt meter from blue or yellow wire to ground while the motor is running? Not getting any reading on the dash amp meter and the batt isn't charging.
This schematic is for a 40hp but the charging wires are the same.
I really think I'm going to completely build a new box for the entire mess. There is just not enough room in that little box for fuses, volt regulator, solenoid, connector plug and wires. What a mess.

I found it, thanks. On your question, a volt meter capable of measuring amps will have a built-in shunt which will measure the voltage drop when current is passing through it. So, plug the + lead on the voltmeter into the amp socket on the voltmeter and connect the voltmeter inline (series) with the battery, the battery cable on the + meter wire and the neg meter wire on the + battery post, and you should have a reading.(the current is flowing through the voltmeter) However if the output is greater than the rating of the voltmeter (usually "10A max") you'll probably get a max reading on the voltmeter. But you'll know that there is current present. Call me if you want to ask about it. 414-465-3381.

Thanks! I'll try that, have to get the garbage can out and start her up again.

I think youll have to start up first then insert the voltmeter in series. hopefully the open circuit doesnt shut down the engine. otherwise insert the voltmeter(ampmeter) inline with the generator to the voltage regulator. dont try to start the engine with the voltmeter already inplace, it would probably be too many amps for the meter, dont want to damage it...

I can pick up a case of $2 meters at Harbor Freight

If I just put my volt meter on the battery while the motor is running I should get a reading also? Probably around 13 or 14 volts?. If I put the amp meter in place of the 20 amp fuse in the circuit that should get a reading right??
This pic was taken before the regulator was installed.

63 Sabre wrote:

I can pick up a case of $2 meters at Harbor Freight

If I just put my volt meter on the battery while the motor is running I should get a reading also? Probably around 13 or 14 volts?. If I put the amp meter in place of the 20 amp fuse in the circuit that should get a reading right??
This pic was taken before the regulator was installed.

You should be able to check output right at the battery with the engine running.. If the regulator you installed is from an automotive application, it will probably be set at a max of 13.8 volts.. Most "marine" regulators are set to a higher voltage between 14.2 to 14.5 volts because it's assumed that it will be charging multiple batteries at the same time..

I'm assuming that you realize that most of the older outboard charging systems had little to no output at idle speed, their max output was usually somewhere around normal cruising speed (3000-3500 RPM)..With the engine running, connect your voltmeter across the battery terminals and check the voltage.. Then rev the engine to around 2000-2500 RPM while watching the voltmeter, the battery voltage should climb to whatever the regulator's set point is..

Sounds like a plan. If it gets above freezing this week I'll giv it a try.
Not too many of these old girls came with a generator. I think it was an option.

Hey Cal! Did you test the generator yet? I found this test procedure, a little different than the messing around I was proposing...
www.scribd.com/document/325324641/1968-Evinrude-40HP-Big-Twin-Service-Manual-pdf

Also, now that I have mine home, I "just" noticed the generator on mine has been "forcibly" removed. The ring portion of the bracket where the generator actually mounts has been broken off! Unless that structure interferes with removing the cover and a PO wanted it out of the way, I would assume someone just busted it off to take it. I did find the drive belt under the back seat... I see a couple on e-bay, would the motor thread guys have parts available?

Haven't had a chance to run it yet but I did install a voltage meter. Thanks for the link it will be helpful.
The generator mount is probably around somewhere on ebay or if not marineengine.com. Guys might have parts available wouldn't hurt to ask.

you could put the voltmeter(ampmeter after you change the wire position) between the 2 wires on the dash ampmeter. The dash meter could be bad..

ALSO CHECK THE CONTINUITY OF ALL THE WIRES the ones for the dash meter and from the generator, only takes one bad connection . . . and of course the generator/regulator only allows current at higher engine rpm's...

rocketman wrote: Hey Cal! Did you test the generator yet? I found this test procedure, a little different than the messing around I was proposing...
www.scribd.com/document/325324641/1968-Evinrude-40HP-Big-Twin-Service-Manual-pdf

Weather warmed up this weekend so I had a chance to do another garbage can test. Still no output from the gen so I removed it and did the bench test. It ran like a motor. Maybe it was not polarized correctly since the PO had really taken the entire charge system out of the mix. Going to re-install it today and make sure all wires are correct.
On a side note, there is a small electrical drain somewhere. The battery was ka-poot after sitting a few weeks so I'll have to look into that also.
To add to the mystery while running the motor suddenly sped(?) up and died. NOW WHAT! Ran out of gas ...ooops

Electrical drain - voltage regulators can do that, that is how they work (at least the old ones). check it to be sure. The cure, when you are done with the boat, disconnect one of the battery terminals! I do that with my '72 Triumph TR6 . . . i just bought a used generator on e-bay $33. i need a belt, do you know of a good replacement? e-bay has them at $30 +. And my boat colors seems to be yellow under the blue paint. the cushiona are dark brown, there is no drain hole in the transom for the bilge or under the front seat. There is not any detail in the library distinguishing between model years '57-'59. There are only 2 ribs and the keel on the bottom too. Wondering what year this is so i can get it titled/registered . . .

ALSO, i have read that the generator output does not kick in until a minimum engine rpm is met. I don't know the specifics, yet.

Pretty sure that 1958 was the year for yellow. Here's a clip from the glassic library.
Wisconsin is pretty flexible on registering boat years. I bought my rocket and it was registered as a '62 only to find out after some research that '60 was the only year that the light blue was made so I changed the year on the reg. No problems.
As far as your drain holes are concerned the front deck area under the bow is hollow so there is no foam that would get soaked. There should be a culvert type tunnel under the front seat area that lets any water drain into the back seat area and then it would be drained out that scupper hole in the floor. If there is any way you can check the underside area beneath the rear seat and fuel tank that might be hollow also for floatation. Shove a wire/coat hanger in the hole and see if there is anything in there. If not, glass the hole back up. There should be a transom drain and a plug about 4" up from the bottom where water can be drained. I'll add some pictures later.

cal, my 1958 rocket is yellow and white, the yellow is faded and looks lite tan now. my drain is just in front of the back seat. boat is still here and anybody can have it free, just bring a trailer and help. frog

Greg, maybe rocketman should get ahold of you. Put his project on the ground and pull the trailer north. Your rocket might be in a lot better condition than the one he has.