TOPIC: '57 Johnson QD 18 H help

I'm new the forum and new to outboard motors. This spring I picked up a 1961 Glasspar Lido with a 1957 Johnson Sea Horse QD 18 H attached. I realize the 10 hp motor is probably too small to get the boat up and moving, but I really just want to be able to scoot around the lake when fishing.
After some prep work, I was able to fire up the motor in a barrel. It was running rough and I couldn't get it to rev up. I rebuilt the carb and tried firing it up again. On the second pull she fired up and revved up higher than when I had it running before. After about 20 seconds she choked out and died. I haven't been able to get started again.
The previous owner swapped out the pressurized tank for a fuel pump.
Any ideas where I should start would be great. Let me know of any other info you need.
Thanks for your help.

MileHighBoater,

WELCOME ABOARD.

IF it was mine, I would sell the QD18 & buy/trade for a 35HP OMC "BigTwin" from 1959 or a 40HP from 1962-65, as I doubt that you will be happy with the performance of the Lido even for fishing. - The bigger engine will likely be just as inexpensive to buy/repair/run over the long haul as the 10HP is.
(I've bought several BigTwin OBs in the last 5 years for 100.oo or less & 120.oo will buy enough SIERRA parts, from your local NAPA store, to make it a GREAT engine for decades, with simple/routine maintenance.)

NOTE: IF you don't already have one, get a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS, THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO MAKING AN OLD MOTOR RUN FOREVER.
(I paid 5.oo for mine, used.)

yours, satx

I've been looking around for a 35-40 hp motor, but I've found it pretty difficult to find anything decent. It doesn't seem like there are very many option in Colorado. Any suggestions where I should be looking?

Check that you are getting fire to both spark plugs.You can buy a cheap tool at harbor freight to do so.

Squirt some premix fuel in the carb to see if it will fire.

If you do not have spark to both Cyl you may need to buy some coils.

Let us know from there

Check the coils, common problem is the coils are so old that insulation breaks down, it'll spark until the engine gets warm, then quit & that's it.

If the old coils are cracked or oozing insulating compound, they are shot. No matter if you can coax a spark out of 'em, they're gonna fail under load.

New coils are still available, while you're in there replace points & condensers (OMC's "Tune-Up Kit") and she'll run like a dream.

www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1957&hp=18

www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=18-5006&returntopage=/parts/sierra-marine/sierra-marine-parts-catalog-00210.htm

HTH.......ed

Yep, like Ed said. Do new coils (common problem with age) and points/condensers. Great motors and damn near bullet proof!

Thanks for the links. When I checked the site, the tune-up kit is for the 18 h.p. Will this work for my 10 h.p., or do I need a different kit. I didn't notice a kit listed for the 10 h.p.

MileHighBoater wrote:

Thanks for the links. When I checked the site, the tune-up kit is for the 18 h.p. Will this work for my 10 h.p., or do I need a different kit. I didn't notice a kit listed for the 10 h.p.

I found this application description:

18-5006 - Points & condenser tune-up kit (one kit does two cylinder motor) fits Johnson/Evinrude, 3hp to 9.5hp 1952-76, 10hp 1950-63,15hp 1956,18hp 1957-61,25hp 1952-55,30hp 1956,35hp 1957-59,40HP 1960-61

I tested for spark and was only able to get it sporadically on one cable and not at all on the other.

I ordered a pair of coils and the tune-up kit. They're supposed to get here on Friday, but we're heading to Vegas for the weekend so I doubt anything will get installed until next week.

On a side note, I got a lead on a 1960s Lark 40 hp that I'm checking out in the morning per satx's suggestion. It's an electric shift, so I'll have to figure out if its worth swapping out my two-lever controls or if there is some sort of conversion that can me made.

Thanks again for all the help.

Finally got around to replacing the coils, points and condensers. I think it's safe to say I found the source what was causing my spark issue.

Lol, well, I'm guessing it is going to run MUCH better now!! have fun.

If the old points still have enough "meat" on them, dress them with a fine file, clean them by running a business card thru them, and save them. May save a few $$$ and a couple headaches later.

MileHighBoater,

TRUST ME: You do NOT want an electric shift BigTwin as a first motor, even for FREE. = Been there, did that, didn't have a good time.
(I took mine to a OMC mechanic for "a permanent fix" & 400+ dollars later, the foot still leaked & sometimes shorted out the shifting system. Electric Shift was/is a BAD design.)

ALL of the BigTwin lower units leak (at least to some degree) AND water & electricity together are a BAD combination.

My sincere advice is keep looking for a suitable OB that has manual (2-lever) shift.

This is not to say that you may not want to buy the electric shift OB for parts. = The powerhead is essentially the same & I've bought a lot of "20 dollar motors" over the last 40 years & stripped them for parts.

just my OPINION, satx

satx,
I wish I would have seen your advice earlier. I already pulled the trigger on the Lark and have quickly realized it's going to take some real work and money to get it up on the boat. So far, I'm in for a selectric control box, a junction box, a solenoid, a starter switch, a regulator (which ran a cool $100 by itself) and 100 feet of marine-grade wire (I need to build a boat-side wiring harness). It's a good thing American Pharoah came in at the Belmont, or I'd really be in trouble.

On the bright side, the Johnson now purrs like a kitten (a 58-year-old one) and will be hitting the water on Saturday.

MileHighBoater,

Perhaps your experience will be WAY better than mine. = BEST WISHES for a long purring life for your '58 Lark.

yours, satx