TOPIC: OMC Diodes

I have two older diodes from previous projects that I'm going to use on my next setup. I'm moving all electric(s), key, choke, etc. to the dash vs the shift lever control box which is broken and missing the pusher buttons and then install a single lever Morse for speed. It's a '70 65hp hydro. I'm setting up a push/pull nav light switch for my shifter and it is working fine. I need to install a diode in the circuit so the engine won't leap forward on shutdown. I know where the diode needs to go but how do I test these things for current flow direction. Can I use an ohm meter?

If you have a decent multimeter, you can check the front-to-back ratio of the diode; it should have a very high resistance in one direction, and a much lower resistance when measuring with the polarity of the test leads swapped.

Here's a website with a much better explanation than I can make:

www.learnabout-electronics.org/diodes_05.php

Some meters even have a "diode test" position, which I imagine might use a bit higher voltage than the "ohms" scale.

My Sears digital VOM has both the "omega" symbol and a symbol for a diode on the same setting, so I presume it's got enough "pep" on that setting to do either.

HTH...........ed

Ed, thanks for the link. Makes it easy when I have an actual picture.

Morse made a electric shift switch kit for the Hydromatic. It fit into their single lever controllers where the shift cable would have been mounted. This would be for a Morse single lever control that did both shift and throttle functions.

Do they still make those? I'll search for them. I do have a chrome Morse single lever shifter. The mechanics on the back are all intact and with two cables. I'm assuming the shifter add-on would be mounted behind the unit and have some kinda lever setup.
Thanks for the info.
Cal

2 things Cal:

1) Morse was bought by Teleflex (now called SeaStar Solutions) about 10 years ago. Morse name is long gone. I have never seen the Morse switch but it seems reasonable to me that they made one,

2) Remember there was the electric shift and the hydro-electric shift. Electric shift was the non-thru hub exhaust and hydro-electric was thru-hub exhaust like yours. Electric shift used power to shift into gear & defaulted into neutral with the loss of power, Hydro-electric defaulted into forward and shifted to neutral or reverse by providing power to the one or both solenoids. I can't remember the exact system at this time. But the important thing to remember is that the switches are different between the 2 systems.

Bottom line is that even with the OEM J/E controls there was 2 different wiring (switch) types along with push buttons for Evinrude & single lever for Johnson.