TOPIC: Cool Trim/tilt for Homelite

The aftermarket units work but they detract from appearance. I have modified an older Chrysler/early Force style unit to fit. It was not a project for the faint of heart BUT it works and looks great. Will post pictures when it is finished and painted. When you see it you will throw rocks at your CMCs, Panthers and Pow,rTrans. It is SWEET, and looks like it came on it.
If you want one you will need the complete mid-section from any Force with A NON Merc TnT. The early non Merc style will have four hydraulic lines which are exposed and pump/motor assy exposed and bolted to the starboard side of the transom mount bracket. I bought mine from a boneyard guy who knows too much and had to pay $300, but there must be some out there for a song.

tonyboats,
How is the Crysler TNT wired? I have a Chysler TNT on my 1966 Homelite that for lack of knowing how to power it is non operational. Does it need a solenoid in the circuit?
Tom from Rubicon,WI

Tom, wiring depends on motor. Do you have a 3 wire or 2 wire motor?
Mine came off a 1989 Force 85hp. It had a 2 wire motor (looked like an aftermarket replacement motor). On mine green wire to neg and blue wire to positive runs it up, reverse for down. No solenoid.
Good luck.

I'm very interested in seeing pics of this set up. Are you close to being finished?

Hope to be done painting the power head, pan, leg, trim and gear case within a few weeks. Once painted and assembled I will post pictures, video? of the restored Homelite Grand Prix and the spare trim unit. I am building two, Second one will be better. Learned lots on first one. Thanks for your interest.

You know, I often wondered if the Chrysler/Force power tilt and trim unit would fit on a Bearcat/Homelite. I am very interested in your project. Please post pictures and "how to" article.

Thanks,
Rick

Tonyboats,
Thanks for the reply. I forgot about this thread while I was deer hunting. I just went out in the bitter cold shed and conductors coming out of the TNT motor it has a blue and green conductor in a polarized connector and a free brown conductor. Do you have a schematic? I bought a Clymer manual for chrysler thinking it would be of use,nope. And the guy I bought the engine from told me to go to O'Rieley's and get rocker switch# that I can't remember.
Tom from Rubicon,WI

Most Chrysler's I have seen have two auto style cube relays and a standard thermal circuit breaker under the cowl to forward/reverse the trim motor. This setup gets power off the main battery lead at the starter solenoid. Up front you need a single pole double throw momentary center off switch. You can also use two buttons. Also two spare wires to the dash. It connects up just like a car window winder motor. I don't know how electrically savvy you are so I need to mention, the trim motor pulls too much current to power it over the wires running from the front. Thus the relays.

These are pictures of the clamp bracket with power trim & tilt unit from a 1989 Force 85hp which we modified to fit this 1965 Grand Prix 55. The complete clamp bracket/trim assy from the Force is used. Here is the short version. The Homelite vertical pivot pin is inserted thru the Force bracket to join the motor to the Force clamp bracket. 1- Remove the Homelite powerhead and gearcase leaving the pan and leg. 2- Remove all trim components from Force bracket exposing the single casting that accepts the pivot pin. It is 9.5” and the Homelite is 9” from bottom to top. We cut 1/2” off (perpendicular to the centerline of the pin) and ground and test fit to get the length. 3- Use the Homelite pin to reassemble. ( NOTE: the shimmed pin hole in the Force bracket is 1 1/8” diameter and the Homelite pin is 1” diameter. We used hard plastic shim material to make this a snug fit.) You will see several areas that need material removed to facilitate side to side turning. We ground them down and test fit about two dozen times to get everything to clear. Even after cutting and grinding there is plenty material left in all areas for strength. 4- Basically polish ground spots smooth, paint and reassemble it. Note one caution.. there are no “stops” at either side to prevent paint damage when turned side to side. We plan to use the steering system set up to prevent this paint to paint contact. Good luck with yours. Tony
PS This restored motor is for sale as well as another trim unit.

Picture #2 (sorry can't get it to take but one at a time)

Picture # 3

If you want more pictures, please email me directly at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
or call 256-504-7898.

Tonyboats or other forumites,
I know I am doing this the hard way, please indulge my obsessive need for details a schematic would be most appreciated. Hopefully this thread will be archived.
Tom from Rubicon,WI

Tom, this is a trim relay harness for a current style Mercury two wire motor. I used one on mine and it works fine. We sell them new and I have a used one.

Tony,
Thanks for the reply and photo. You will be getting an email shortly.
My engine has been out of trim since I installed it.
Tom from Rubicon,WI

Had a nice visit with Tony when I came home from work. He sold me a used relay harness. When or should i say if the weather warms up I will be able to have a functional Chrysler Tnt for my 1966 Homelite.
Thanks Tony, you are the man!
Tom from Rubicon,WI

Guys now that I've had my fun with the homelite with tilt and trim shown above, it is time to clear it out for other projects. Like all others of us I have too much invested but it needs a home. It literally looks and runs like it came out of a crate new.
I can ship it in a steel Yamaha ouboard crate by truck anywhere.
Anyone of you interested?
PS don't mind listing in classified, just wanted to throw it out to you guys first.
I'm thinking in the $4k range, tell me what you think.
Tony

I know this is an old thread,but do you still have the motor for sale?

Bump !