TOPIC: Mating Deck and Hull

I'm getting close to rejoining my hull and deck. It's an awfully tight fit despite using forms to hold the hull sides in. My current problem is after I get the sides tucked under the deck edge, the deck is about .5/.75 inch too far forward. Any suggestions on moving it back? The gap is between the blunt end of the hull and the deck and it is correspondingly short of the outer transom edge. But, it's tight everywhere else. I've tried tapping the nose of the deck, but the friction between the two components is difficult to overcome.

Any suggestions will be welcomed.

Hi Dspeck,

When I put my deck back on Bandit, I suspended the deck above the hull with ropes/pulleys, lowered it so that the tip of the bow engaged the rub/rail channel. I left the stern end raised slightly. I used some of those long Allen wrenches to poke through a few of the rivet holes just behind the front of the boat and was able to use them as a lever to snug in the bow well. I was then able to get a few pop-rivets into the square front of the bow. I lowered the deck onto the remaining rub rail, and popped it in. I ran up and down the sides with Allen wrenches and aligned the rivet holes (deck/hull/rub rail channels). I left a few Allen wrenches in the holes to hold it while I started putting in more rivets.

Very important... don't just go around the boat putting in pop rivets.. but rather starting at the bow, put in a few then move to the other side and do a few... working your way towards the back... otherwise you will find the holes alignment changing (don't ask me how I know that...heh)

Also, be sure to use 7/8" or longer pop rivets. I started out using 3/4" and not all went through both channels once they were compressed. I ended up drilling my 77 rivets back out, popped the deck back off to clean out the shavings/rivets and had to do it all over again (GRRRRR!)

Dean

Any suggestions on moving it back? ......... I've tried tapping the nose of the deck, but the friction between the two components is difficult to overcome.

I had similar issues installing the deck back on the GT150, (fore aft alignment). As Dean stated, it helps to have some sort of lifting assist and have it lined up when you go down with the deck. (I used a come-a-long on the bow and an engine hoist on the transom end.) It seems like sliding it even just 1/2" would work, but that just wasn't going to happen. I had to have a second go at setting it on as well. One of the many "this ought to take about 30 min." jobs that ended up taking half a day!

Any more on this?

Sure. I know how difficult it can be given the flex that can upset the alignment. Sometimes the 'Allen' wrench idea works, but it does not snug things up. In the aircraft industry, there are temporary fastners that go into the rivet holes to keep thing in place. Sorry, I cannot remember the name ('clik' fastners?)

Another way is to have pieces of 1/2" plywood, narrow enough to fit behind the hull flange and about 2" long. Run a drywall screw through the hole and into the plywood, It should suck down but WAIT! just get it started and then go several holes further along and repeat, both sides. This should help to get things right and then you can begin sucking tit together till your satisfied.

If you want to glue the two parts, leave the parts loose enough to squeeze bonding goo into the space and then close it up. When it is set go about removing the clamps one at a time and replace with rivets.

That my version, anyone have any comments? I dont claim to have the best answer.

Ian

Those temporary rivets are called Clecos. I have the install tool but have misplaced the box of Clecos.

It is sage advice to temperately aline the halves with some method until you are certain its just right, then put in the rivets. Sealing the seam before the trim is riveted on with Quad or 5200 is a excellent extra step.

Sometimes you have to get creative when mating the halves. As suggested the sky hook method is maybe the best. Bribing a couple of buddies to come help with a beer or twelve is not the best. No where near the degree of control, three block and tackles off the overhead has. Or I have used my engine crane with a H shaped load spreader made of 2X6. The same rig was handy later to take off a truck hood by myself. Using several lifting points on the top half to spread the load is important so it comes down square and undistorted.

Thanks again got excellent input.

If you have any interest in restoring an aluminum boat, clecos are a god send.

Amazon has a decent set of pliers & 25 3/16" clecos for @25+/-. Worth every penny. Not sure if they carry a 1/4" but it might be worth trying to find them if the upper & lower halves of the boat, both have large enough thru holes for 1/4"........