TOPIC: Hi all, new here, just bought a 1960 G3 :)

Hi all, not only new here, but to boats as well. Great info to be had in this forum, thank you in advance for any help you can give about my newly aquired G3. I paid $250 and had to drive a 300+ mile round trip to Tehacapi, but it was fun. From the info. I have read so far is that I have a 1960 G3. It is all original (most I found near me were $100's more and basket cases! The one I bought has the original seat, grab rails (not installed), complete black rub rails, original gauges, embelems and came with a free (although too big) biminy top. The floor seems ok/ sturdy, as does the transom (but I can see small stress cracks in the fiberglass at both corners due to the oversize motor on it, a merc 650), will need to exchange it for something smaller. Don't know the condition of the motor as it is missing some parts (have no idea what, but several disconnected wires are there). I can easily turn it by hand, so it's not seized. Hull ok, but lots of spidering, but no holes or chunks out of it (needs repainted/gel coated). Trailer needs repainted.
I have one question (for now ), the motor came down during the ride home (pulled over and tried to lift it back up, but couldn't), how do I get it back up? Thank you, Rick Force


[img] [img]http://www.fiberglassics.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/photo5-20120526.JPG

Just thought of some questions before going off to bed. My G3 has a built-in/ permanent aluminum gas tank up in the bow (have no idea how many gallons), with filler on the top, left side (you can see it in the above pic above the "AP" of the vin) of the bow deck and a vent on the port side by the vin numbers. Very professional installation if not original. Did some of these come from the factory this way? And, how will this affect the ride and plane? Will it still beable to lift up the nose as seen in alot of the G3 pics here and other sites? Maybe this is why someone put on the large 650 merc? Thank you and good nite, Rick

First of all welcome! Ok to start you off the 650 merc that you complain is to big for the boat... Not true at all. The 650 is PERFECT for a g-3 and Motors that are to big are 100+ hp. I would test the transoms strength before you put it in the water just for security. After i first bought my g3 i through it right in the water and i was lucky i caught the problem when i did because if i had driven the boat any farther than the motor would have dropped off the back of the boat. My transom was COMPLETELY rotted

Rick:

Welcome to the website Sir and CONGRATULATIONS on getting your G-3!
They are truly great old boats.

I agree with FG Member "Well-Worth-It" that your Merc 65 Outboard is NOT too big for your G-3. In fact, the last motor that was on our family owned G-3 was in fact a 1964 Merc 65.

Rick, the Glasspar G-3's did not ever come from the factory with permanent "built-in" aluminum gas tanks. I am sure that was installed by the prior owners. Some of the other members will have to post about the ride and performance with that nose tank because our G-3 never had them.

The "stress cracks" you mentioned on your G-3 are very common to these boats. Our G-3 has a few on the center deck, but our deck gelcoat is all original.

Anyway, good luck with your boat Sir.

Rick, here is a picture of our 1960 G-3.

the reason it wont tilt back up is because it has a tilt lock when in neutral and reverse, put it in drive and it will go up.

Absolutely beautiful boat! Now I know what mine should look like. From that top angle, it really looks like a fifties car back end! Is that just a pad in the back or an actual full back seat? Very nice use for that area.

The transom seems pretty solid. When I was trying to raise the motor back up, there was very little play on the transome, just enough to flex the stress cracks a little. It maybe ok? The floor also seems ok (1 little hole in that back area, not sure if that is a drain or just broken there. Except for the one I just bought, all of the others I looked at had severe floor damage or no floor at all (and missing most of their hardware). This was the only complete one I found in months of looking. Thank you for the info.

Thank you Ponyboy and allthat replied), i'll check that out when I go back to the storage. Can anyone here recommend a place to buy a proper fitting boat cover? There is a thread elsewhere in this forum, but that place they mention is out. Also need the top cover for my 650 merc, I have the mid banb and large badge. Thank you all, Rick.

Nice boat. I love G-3s. I don't own one at the moment, though I just put a transom, stringers, and floor in one for a friend, which you can see on this thread-

www.fiberglassics.com/fiberglassics-forums/home/main-forum/glasspar-g-3-gets-a-new-transom

They are not only great looking boats, but also preform VERY well. I think you'll be happy with the 65 HP thats on there.

flashbk13 wrote:

The transom seems pretty solid. When I was trying to raise the motor back up, there was very little play on the transome, just enough to flex the stress cracks a little. It maybe ok?

There should be NO play or flex in the transom at all! Stress cracks are a sign of a structural problem. It's easy to check for rot from the inside, the 'glass skin is thin, and you can drill through it in a few spots to check the integrity. Glasspar didn't seal the top of the transom, and the wood gets wet, and tends to rot...

Unfortunately the stringers are the same way- as is the floor- the undersides are usually left bare...

-Andrew

flashbk13 wrote:

Absolutely beautiful boat! Now I know what mine should look like. From that top angle, it really looks like a fifties car back end! Is that just a pad in the back or an actual full back seat? Very nice use for that area.

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Rick:

Thanks for your kind words on our G-3!

My Dad bought our G-3 brand new for my older Brother and it has been in our family since 1960. Rick, you asked about the pad in the "back seat" area. Contrary to what some G-3 owners have said to me, that pad was ORIGINAL to our G-3 when my Dad bought it. I will get a picture up for you of the original one that came with the boat when it was bought. Like the front seat, the original red pad was torn and in bad shape so we had the new one made.

Rick,....here is a photo of the original rear seat pad that came with the boat at the time my Dad bought the G-3. This photo was taken right before the restoration was started.

Thank you for the pic. So I would guess that some owners say there was no pad there? Then what is that area for? As for your pad, do you just kneel on it or sit cross legged? I guess however you fit

I bought a 1960 G-3 NEW in 1960 and it did not have a pad or any type of seating in the rear.

I have more pics from the seller's phone, but the file size is too big for here, so i'll upload them to photobucket and post the link here. I will also take proper size pics with my digital camera this week as well.

I've noticed the red decked g3's are more custom as sold new. seats look thicker and contoured like a bucket seat. Wade and someone else had one alike? In the ad's they talk about two cusions placed under the center deck and were for floatation also Wondering how thick those cusions are in your boat? 1 1/2 perhaps?

As said a 65hp is perfect for g3 and more hp wont hurt if an older motor, thats not too heavy from whats been said. I have one with a 650 and another with a Mk78,70hp (needs a complete rebuild), hoping for a 800 for the third?

My first '60 g3 had a tank under the bow deck but was gone, only the filler and vents remain, lov those in the summer as keeps it cool on those over 100 deg days. Cant hurt leaving the tank there for long weekends and have one or two 6 gal tanks in back or under the center deck.

The gelcoat tends to show stress cracks but usually the fiberglass is not affected from what i've seen on mine. Dont let anyone stand on the deck, as said above there very thin skined. The corners at the end of the dash and windshield are very weak, not supported well.

If a transom is real bad you can push the top of motor back and forth a bit to see if it flexes much as said above but also look at the bottom of the motor bracket to see if it flexes the fiberglass. I have one that the rot is way down there and the top of motor moves about 2-3" LOL,

flashbk13 wrote:

Thank you for the pic. So I would guess that some owners say there was no pad there? Then what is that area for? As for your pad, do you just kneel on it or sit cross legged? I guess however you fit

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You are welcome on the pictures Rick!

Yes, you are right, other G-3 Owners have told me that the rear pad was not ever offered on the G-3. That original pad you see in the picture came wrapped in a plastic bag much like the new car carpet mats do today.

That rear area was for passengers to sit in. Myself or members of our family just sit flat and lean against either of the gunwales.
As the other members stated, after 1961, Glasspar made the G-3's
"open decks" with no center partition and installed "back-to-back"
seating.

...RICK,: CONGRATS, Welcome..Here is almost your identical brother in North Chattanooga , TENN. This is 3rd center Deck I had over time.. The trailer is finishing up red paint for new member in North Georgia.. It had been in the glassifieds section. 1959 with Serial # disc..

Like guys mention above the splashwell is sort of easy to UN-BOLT then you can polish buff the AL trim & visual inspect the wood transom under-neath. They dont last forever if been outside. Did you say the MERC is SHORT shaft .? I have some four cyl ones from late 60's ,Early 70's . Seem to be tad more desirable than the three cyl ones of early 60's. . Motor parts are good inventory.

Again GOOD SCORE.
...............

Hi gang here is the photobucket link:
s81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/flashbk13/boats/

Hi Ponyboy,
I tried what you said, and it still won't go up. Look at the pics on photobucket (I uploaded more), is this a power trim/tilt unit? It has lift cylinders on both sides. Also, ther are 2 levers on the speed control, the large red one for speed/ direction, but a smaller (on the inside away from seat) black one, what does that do? I put both all the way fwd and can't lift this motor (considering it was up when I started out and eventually came down slowly). Thank you for your help (can't tell i'm a newbee to boats can you?

I just uploaded more pics, several of the motor, which I find from the serial number is a 1965 model. Can you tell what's missing? There are several wires on the port side not connected to anything (same on starboard side, also fried). Where would I try for a new motor top cap/hood/bonnet? I have the band and belt buckle (for lack of better secriptions). May be cheaper just to find another 650. Thank you, Rick.

RICK, I have a few Merc 650's.. Do not see a photo of your shift / control box, BUT the smaller LIft lever should be the FAST IDLE.. When
the engine is started in Neutral & cold the smaller Lift lever should advance the idle for warm up / NON - Stalling.
..Your Merc ride Guide steering wheel is a expensive item . Nice to have a single cable , IS IT FREE to move side to side / NOT rusted??
Coming up thru the splashwell with other wires is a tight turn pinch.
I would consider re route to side under corner deck .. I see the
front motor steering BAR is not attached to the left / right turn cable.. Normally there is a SMALL TWO PIECE BRASS CLAM SHELL adapter
one need to bolt over the groove in cable end containing a round hole
for the bar & nut thread .?? Yes.... If you never locate , Joe Poole ,Atlanta, Ga sells them ...
SIDE WIRES..I assume you are talking about the typical INTERNAL WIRE HARNESS. this goes from the back of the bigger round black External harness coming from the control box.. Those small wires have bad corrosion..... LIFT assist. Seems you may need OIL CAN / Spray to lube the side pivot points on the rusty lower to raise..Right under the tilt point tube on both sides is a SMALL BLACK Thumb side lever to move & will HOLD UP Position for trailer or inspect.. Duriong trailering one should use a TRANSOM SAVER bar which goes from the last roller on the treailer to around the bottom engine skeg to keep flex off the boat tramsom.. You should NOT have power trim on this engine , side shock assist tubes only.. This may be a good engine to practise / LEARN on . I see a Propeller , that is good money . Look around for a early 70's unit in running cond & learn from that.

Hi Split
The shift control box is on the floor. It has the 2 levers, a stuck choke button up top and the ignition key hole down towards the floor on the back edge of the box. The steering is frozen, but not at the wheel. The cable flexes at the motor, so the problem is there, and I still can't get this motor to tilt back up...must be doing something wrong as it was up when I started the journey back home. Will get out the spry lube and go at all pivit points to see if that helps. I did find that removable pin you mentioned, it's in the hole closest to the transom. What do I do with this? Are you saying to remove that pin and lift the motor up and reinsert that pin in the lowest hole (that should raise the motor to it's highest point, is that correct? When is this assy used and is it different from the tilt I am trying to do? Sorry, know nothing of outboards/ boats in general. I have no idea what or where the skeg is. I have no other steering parts, so must be missing the ones you mentioned. Is this on the area of the front, port side of the motor? There is another bar that is not connected to anything after it leaves the motor.
As for the wiring I was talikng about. The ones I found on the port side go to various areas around the generator. The ones on the starboard side are fried and went to the selenium rectifier.
Hope I answered your questions...I may have created more for me Thank you, Rick.

Someone mentioned the prop, it's a 2 blade. Never seen one, only the 3 and 4 blade types.

Here is a pic of the TWO piece Clam Shell Merc Ride Guide ADAPTER
for gthe Steering BAR off the Front of the motor to the TELEFLEX cable going THRU the housing channel..
The Starboard side of the motor has a LARGE NUT that needs to be UN-SCREW to try & tap the rod back thru from the port side. OIL LUBE. If you do get parts un coupled I was successful in the past by vertically clamping that end of the cable so that Light OIL ,Like MARVEL, can soak & de-rust the stuck section. That cable for new retail can be a $ 100 part. !

....Under neath your lower motor , YES the two small Grip claws can be tight rusted to the moveable TILT PIN you mentioned. I had this also on 67 OMC 60 hp from estate back yard. ROTATE that pin 180 degrees UPWARD so the free end has a gravity flop down tip . That tip needs to be straight across,, tap with hammer & remove... Maybe prior owner had a small block of wood holding up lower, & you never noticed, till fell on ground .! IF you get it to lift up & supported ,, Look under, right up to bottom of block , on both sides is SMALL BLACK THUMB , Front to back slide
lever , this half round brace should hold the lower in a RAISED pos..... The SKEG is the very lowest point of the housing UNDER the propeller , will drag on the road & break tip off, if not supported during hwy driving....
..... That five or six POsition remove tilt pin FINE adjusts the attitude of the hull under speed to balance the nose of the boat in a level attitude. TOO far IN will have the nose PLOWING into water , lowering ones SPEED. ..TOO far in outward pos has the nose climbing out of water & then fall back with weight , Never holds a level pos, Called Porposing, like the Dolphin fish .
.......

PART II Prop removal.. Two blade props, are more for Speed applications... Four blade is more take off torque like Water Skiing, etc.. They all have a different PITCH in Inches. 18 would
be a higher pitch,,15 a lower & one selects with a Tachometer for max speed at the motors operating rev limit... TRY to get the PROP OFf the shaft . Over time that also may be Rusted onto the shaft
creating another problem.. MERC has a star washer with two or three ears, that need to be taped inward with a screw driver (Like a cotter pin), to allow the NUT to rotate off.. Once a year one should remove the prop & lube the spline shaft..

. Just like that front motor steer cable if rusted with salt water over time a HEAT TORCH will be needed.. Major labor if either one of these two area are seized solid..... Let us know.... There are also many classic members in Calif on a web called Golden State Glassics, should try & locate someone local to visit your rig.

PS, On my White motor picture ,(above post), at the center motor picture is a small BLACK plastic handle lever, this is what holds
RAISE {POSITION, on a outboard.. This OMC example is TWICE the size of what you are looking for under the , Black on BLACK Merc 650 .

I have a complete pwr head for this same motor. But Im in Indiana and shipping might be a bit stiff. If It comes to that let me know, Ide sell it cheep. Im converting the ol 650 tower to a 100hp.

Thank you Ponyboy for the offer. I'm not at that point but have this post to refer to when the time comes. Have no idea the condition of this engine, except for the disconnected/ fried wires. Still can;t get this motor to raise up. Will have to douse every pivit point with lube to free this up. It won't raise or move side ways (steering). Thanks, Rick.

Hi Split, I found those 2 levers, but can't get those to move either up or down. Which way are they supposed to go to lift this? I really have no idea what's going on with this motor. i'll have to douse all the pivits with lube. I think I found 1/2 of that clam clamp in the splash well. Thank you, Rick.