TOPIC: Merc 110

Yeah, #18, 19, 20, 21 are for the neutral limiting function, so you don't rev it up too much when it's in neutral.

The stop is adjustable so you'll just have to fiddle with it until it doesn't interfere with the throttle-up in gear.

So is the leak actually coming out of the fuel pump, or is it at the top of the carb where the filter housing resides?

There are (2) gaskets there that must be in place or it'll leak; one inside the filter housing, and the other larger gasket on float bowl cover.

Also there must be a plastic or metal sealing washer under the bolt that holds down the filter housing.

The fuel pump itself is sealed by the gaskets/diaphragms. And it's bolted to the side of the block, as I recall. Maybe the 1/8" NPT fittings or the hose is leaking??

Just brainstorming here!

Love the answer of "fiddle with it" till it works!! At least I was on the right path. BTW - I did find the info on how to adjust the 110 idle settings and carb in Section IV, page 91.

The fuel leak is running right down the hose, so my assumption is that it is leaking from the hose fitting itself, not lower down on the fuel pump. I looked at the hose and it seems ok.

I have attached a short video of it running and shot a little bit of the fuel line. Not sure if you can see it leaking or the source.

Likely the fuel line itself. The Merc fuel barbs really aren't barbs, they have a smooth end that goes into the hose, then the one-piece brass ferrule crimps over the hose to hold it in place.

You could just rebuild the whole fuel hose assy with a couple of 1/8" NPT brass fuel barb fittings, and it's probably 1/4" line.

Or, you might want to try cutting the old ferrules off the fittings and see if maybe there's enough sticking out to hold a hose clamp.

Not an awful lot of force on a 1/4" line, as long as you get good purchase on the smooth-shank with a stainless hose clamp, it should stay in place.

I'll try running it tonight and seeing where its coming from. If it doesn't look like a cracked hose I will try a hose clamp.

Thanks!

Messed around with the 110 this morning. I think the hose is shot, tried clamping it and no joy. I was in despair, and then I remembered being talked into buying some 65 hp carbs. Line was the right length and was only missing the 90 corner. Hose was flexible to make the turn, still flow, and doesn't look like it is going to be in the way. Problem solved!!

I also looked at the idle limiter, and I don't think that is the problem. The linkage from the gear shift is cammed out of the way when in forward or reverse, and the throttle linkage stops well before it hits the limiter. There is something else causing a hard stop. I was going to pop the top and see if some was caught under the flywheel, but I didn't have the right tools.

Merc gurus, any thoughts?

BTW - it didn't start using the recoil as I have not put that back together yet, but it did cold start and run well on its own juice. Thats progress!!

I have the same engine, your going the rt way so far, if you remove the fuel pup mark it so ya know witch way is up! all my hoses where bad so I went to the local hardware store and re piped it with copper on the bottom I used just some bulk hose and ran it out the hole where the fuel fitting should have been, I had a male and female omc fittings available so I used them,just let them hang,also on the rewind dont take it apart if the rope is still there turn it clock wize a few turns and get a pic and pull the rope end out and put your handle on it,ck the cover on your 1500 and see if the rope and handle is still there,also note the new waterpump will have to be rigged a bit the new one will have a small groove for the pin to fit, I have had to use a dremmel tool on the last 2 Ive done and widen the groove in the impellor to make it fit

Thanks for the info!!! Hopefully someone will have an idea why the throttle won't advance past idle.

So I got home tonight and I smelled gas in the garage. Went and looked at the 110 and saw 2 problems:

1 - The "new" hose that I had put on had failed and was leaking like a sieve
2 - I had a 3 gallon Mariner tank hooked up to the 110. It was so hot in the garage that it was like there was a fuel pump running pumping gas. I unplugged the line and gas was running out of the line until I opened the tank to relieve the pressure. The tank was 3 feet below the motor!

I am thinking that I need to start from scratch and re-plumb the fuel lines. Can I replace the current fittings with barbed fittings and use modern fuel line?

Still looking for some advice from the gurus regarding the throttle linkage issue.

63LStriton wrote:

Can I replace the current fittings with barbed fittings and use modern fuel line?

Still looking for some advice from the gurus regarding the throttle linkage issue.

Good thing the garage didn't blowed-up!!

Yes you can retrofit the non-OEM stuff and it'll work fine.

Far as the linkage goes, I dunno what to tell ya except what I would do is shift it to Fwd gear, advance the throttle until it hits what it hits, then either remove the offending part and figure out what it's doing that it's not supposed to do.

The whole purpose of the interlock is to block the throttle in Neutral; when you shift to Fwd the interlock is supposed to move out of the way of the throttle arm/mechanism. Either something is broken, installed incorrectly, or "out-of-time".

If you can get a clear, close-up pic of the linkage when it's hitting, maybe that'll help.

I was looking at the throttle linkage diagram and one thing that hits me is the spring (part #23) for the neutral speed limiter follower (part #18).

From what I recollect about how this works, if the shift linkage isn't pushing on the follower, it's spring-loaded to move and interfere with full throttle when in Neutral.

When you shift, the gear on the shift rod pushes the follower out of the way and you'll get full throttle.

Or maybe it's the other way around and the gear pushes the follower into the throttle mechanism until you shift to forward.

I've attached diagrams for both throttle & shift, to aid the discussion.........ed

Thanks Ed. I will give it another try tomorrow. It doesn't take too long to get frustrated with it since it was working , I didn't change anything, and now its not! You might be right with a spring being the culprit. That is something that could have let go in the interim.

When in gear the limiter gets cammed out of the way by the shift linkage. I don't think that is the problem though. I think that something is stuck somewhere. I think I'll pop the top tomorrow and see if anything looks loose. Its probably something simple - its always the simple things that drive you crazy!!

Mystery solved!!! Popped the top last night so I could get a better look. Pretty much saw the problem right away, just needed to figure out how to fix it.

Turned out that a screw under the stator plate had come loose and rotated itself out. I had to disconnect the condenser and coil wires, and I had just enough room to slide in a skinny phillips to tighten everything down. I didn't pull everything apart because I am a big believer in the "if it ain't broke don't fix it!" mantra - especially with 50 year old iginition systems. Everything looked to be in really good shape. I don't think there are a lot of hours on this motor.





Now I just need to replumb the fuel lines and clean-up, and it is ready to go. That is if I can bear to part with it!!

Well, that'll do it!

See, you just had to stare at it long enough to figure it out!!!

Redid the fuel line with some parts from the local Ace Hardware, Kimps. Ran like a champ, but wasn't spitting much water. Think that I will put in a new impeller before doing too much more testing. Doesn't pay to cook the motor while I am trying to adjust the mixture.

Got the impeller for the 110 this afternoon. Can't believe how small it is!!! Looking at the manual, it looks pretty straightforward to drop the bottom like any other Merc. Any suggestions?

Finally got back to the 110 after having it staring at me forlornly for the last month. Dropped the LU and changed the impeller. After looking at the old one, probably didn't have to worry about it at all!!





Good thing I didn't run it too much and that the water pick up tube is too small for the impeller chunks to move through! I think all of the broken pieces were in the corner of the water pump and at the bottom of the pick up tube. (crossing my fingers!!!)

BTW - no one replied on how to put in the impeller and it was a PITA!! There has got to be an easier way, but I couldn't figure it out with what I had on hand. I have seen people put them in the correct sized PVC pipe, but I don't know that would help as the pump was tighter on the outlet side than the inlet by a signficant amount. Finally got it in, but didn't get to test it yet, cuz...

I am still working on the recoil. Pretty much have it ready to go back in, just need to make sure the recoil spring is loading correctly. Gave it one try last night, and no go. I will need to review the manual again to see what it says regarding the pre-load on the spring.

After that it is just clean-up and tuning then decision time. I am going to have to think hard about getting rid of this one because it is pretty handy for a 9.8 - super light. I bet it is 30-40 lbs lighter than the 80-something Johnyrude 9.9 we have at the cottage. Makes the KE-7 seem fat, but that Merc has its own gas tank and is built like a foundry.

Ok Merc gurus - what do you think I got wrong? Put the 110 in the barrel this afternoon and it fired up and ran like a top , but was not spitting any water!!

Any ideas? I am going to take off the LU and check to see if I missed any pieces. I guess it could have fallen off the pin too, but I did check that before it was put back together.

I am assuming it is something with the pick up tube. Can you pull it off from the bottom? Is there a way to blow out the passages?

HELP!!!!

You might have missed the water tube into the pump. There is supposed to be a plastic guide tube that inserts into the pump discharge, it just slides in right on top of the rubber water tube grommet.

This guide tube lets you 'catch' the copper water supply tube as you're inserting the L/U. It'd be just about impossible to get the water tube in the pump without the guide tube in place.

With the L/U off you can blow a little air or flow water up the tube to check for circulation thru the block.

BTW I've found that if you put the motor upside-down it makes it a lot easier to get the L/U back in. Be sure the driveshaft is lined up with the plane of the crankshaft, not the slant of the mid-section.

HTH..........ed

also if the water tube is bent it will be to short to seal. another thing to look at is the plastic washer under the powerhead that collapses and restricts the flow and is the tell tale blocked and is not showing flow but is pumping.

A couple thoughts,...

To install the impeller:
Grease the impeller key so that it will stay in place on the driveshaft.
I put a mark on the top of the impeller that lines up with the notch for the impeller key.
Then I put a mark on the driveshaft above the final resting point of the impeller that lines up with the center of the cut-out for the key.
Then I put the impeller on the driveshaft and put a zip-tie around the impeller blades - about 1/2 way up on the impeller, tighten down the zip-tie - bending over the blades in the correct direction - and placing the zip-tie 'latch' between two blades. Cut off the extra zip-tie.
Rotate the driveshaft so that the zip-tie latch is positioned at the widest part of the off-center impeller cup.
Then slide the impeller straight down onto the key.
Rotate the driveshaft clockwise to insure the impeller is on the key.
Carefully work the zip-tie up off the impeller while holding firmly down on the impeller so it won't slip back up.
Snip the zip-tie & remove it.
Confirm the driveshaft is rotating the impeller (clockwise only), and you are done!!!
Tah-Dah
Dave is bringing up a very important point that will need to be considered if you find that everything is correct between the lower unit and the powerhead.
One other thing I have experienced is that if the alignment tube Ed mentioned, and posted a picture of, is warped or somewhat melted,...The replacement of this alignment tube could resolve the water delivery to the powerhead.
doc

Thanks guys!! Had it off last night and blew some compressed air through the fresh water clean-out. It seemed a little constricted at first, but eventually I was getting a strong puff through the pick-up tube.

Ed - I will keep an eye on the plastic tube. I think that it was lined up correctly when I pulled it off, but I will make sure when I put it back to together. I have it sitting on its head right now, but couldn't get it back together cuz something is binding. Ran out of patience after trying a bunch of times. I think the bolt that goes by the gear shift lever is binding on something.

Dave - not sure about the washer - is there an easy way to check? I don't think the 110 has a telltale - water just comes out of the top exhaust as a telltale. When I ran it yesterday no water coming out.

Doc - sometimes the simplest solutions!!! Feel kind of stupid I did not think of a zip tie - I have a canister full of zip-ties right on the workbench!!

Here is one question that doesn't seem to be addressed in the manual - which way do the blades of the impeller need to be pointed? I matched what direction they seemed to be pointed when I pulled out the old one, but I am wondering if that is my problem. Should they be pointed for a clockwise leading rotation? If you look at my prior pictures of the old impeller, it is sitting in the correct orientation with the pin-hole on the bottom. It seems that the blades are pointing in a counter-clockwise leading rotation, so that is how I set it up.

I spent some time last night re-reading the manual for the install and looking at how the top of the water pump was set up. It seems like the blades should be set up for a clockwise leading rotation so that is how I set it up this time. Seems like a simple / stupid thing, but could that be the cause of my woes?

On the impeller, runs clockwise looking down at it. What I do is simple when putting on the body, turn it COUNTER clockwise and slam it home.

Mark, you know I'm not a Mercaholic but if the motor runs clockwise turn the shaft clockwise while you struggle with the impeller insertions. I always found it easier to do if you lube up the impeller with lots of dish soap right out of the bottle, sorta greases it up (keeps your hands clean also).

Thanks for the help. When I get home tonight hopefully I'll get it back together and all is well

Got it put back together tonight. Went smooth for some reason, and looks like it is spitting water just fine.

www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=J070z2tSpQ0&u=/watch%3Fv%3D_DaOkTpXhkA%26feature%3Dem-upload_owner

Just need to finish up the recoil starter and then work on clean-up.

Update - Got the recoil fixed!! Just has a little too much grease on it and it is sticking. Need to clean it up so it slides better, but it was the first start with the motor in one piece.

www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=85fHlsa5HJo&u=/watch%3Fv%3DlcCmh4Jd2-I%26feature%3Dem-upload_owner

See attached picture.
doc F

Thanks Doc! Still learning the basics I guess.