TOPIC: Progress on my Power Cat 14T

On top of fitment problems Mark, all the primer is screwed up, needs to be completely sanded down, maybe worse (i.e., more fill). Guess I'll go out and see how long my shoulders can take sanding this a.m.

Just got the pt&t back together, new "down" solenoid, everything works the way it's supposed to now. Just need a boat to hang it on.

Frank

What kind of primer did you use on the deck Frank?

It's possible that if you used a sanding type sealer,(more porous) that you will not need to sand it all off. Try leaving it out in the sun for a while and see if it dries out. I believe there may be a way to test if is still adhered properly. Maybe a tape test?

Would like to hear from a paint expert on this.

Of course if it is a sealing type primer and water got under it then it has to come off.

Interlux Pre-kote, grey, single stage. That's about all I can tell ya Dave.

I set it out yesterday to dry, but left it out overnight. It dried quickly this morning, so I lightly sanded it with 120 all over, but where it bubbled left spots of depression under the bubbles. I wanted to do a bit more fill anyway, so sanded those areas to 80 grit, then discovered the only fill I had was no good. So I'm on my way to get a quart.

If I can get this think done today, maybe I'll brush another coat of primer on it later today, then maybe a finish coat or two tomorrow. Problem is I can't have it taking up my garage anymore, so it needs some sort of topcoat so it can sit outside. Only problem is I have to get Gail or Gregg to do the painting - I can't. This of course means I won't be spray painting it, which was my desire. Not enough time.

Frank

Frank
Sorry to hear about the bubbles.
Off the top of my head I'd be suspecting one of two culprits.
Temps or humidity were off when you applied it or impurities on the deck.
If the latter you might have problems down the road with the rest of it bubbling off.

You have mentioned some difficulty with the top deck
I may have missed your posts on what that is exactly.
Care to elaborate again?

regards
lar

I had problems with the first paint I used (Rustoleum Marine primer & topcoat), then went to Interlux Brightsides and it reacted. So I sanded everything off and started again with Interlux Pre-Kote. Over the winter, as much as I tried to keep the primer dry, it got wet and bubbled as unprotected single stage primer will do. Under the bubbles, there are now small bubble sized depressions that I am getting ready to go out and fill, along with some other areas that I wouldn't mind a bit of fill on. If I can get things the way I want today, my wife has volunteered to brush primer on later. If that comes out decent, we will probably do a couple coats of topcoat by brush tomorrow so the boat can sit outside. I can't have it taking up my garage long term, plus it is very difficult to get in and out of the garage as I only have like 1/2" of clearance on both sides.

The fitment issue is a result of two things. One was that I repaired damage to the starboard bow on the hull and deck separately. When I put them back together they fit too tight where the damage was for rub rail to be installed. I tried to fix that yesterday morning and failed. Also, I built a taller transom and needed to build a custom splash pan. I put the deck on the hull, screwed the deck to the hull around the perimeter, then built the splash pan, tying the stern of the boat into a relatively inseparable piece. When I took the screws out around the perimeter, the starboard bow seemed sprung. I can't get the deck to fit over the hull here like it does other places.

Bottom line? I'm not going to worry about fitment right now. I'm going to try and just get the boat in topside paint to protect it from the elements, then worry about fitment.

Frank

Came out okay. I'll take a look at her when she dries, see if I can sand off the runs and drips, then maybe do another coat.

Frank

Hey!!! Looking good frank-O

Thanks Heather. Wanted to spray it, but am running out of time. Need to get a topcopat on this baby so she can sit outside and be okay. Can't have it in my garage long term (i.e. weeks on end!). Still need to get the air system up and do some practicing with hvlp. For now though it's brush and sand time (grrrrrrrrr).

I hope you and your family have a nice Easter.

Frank

She's lookin' good Frank, I knew you'd "Power Cat" your way thru it!

Thanks Mark. We'll see. Can't sand for 16 hours, which probably means after work tomorrow, then another coat of primer, a much more careful coat, because topside comes next. I really don't want my new pick up outside, but until I get topcoat on I don't have a choice. Once the topcoat is done, then it's going to be rub rail, and that ain't gonna be fun my friend.

Frank

Aaa the rub rail is easy frank. A lot more so than paint and primer.

No Heather, this is NOT gonna be easy. Realize I have never done anything like this before, and as a result, made two bad rub rail errors.

First, I rebuilt the damaged starboard bow on the hull, then the deck, and when I put them together, they hardly fit. Too tight, and the deck does not seem to want to come down enough. I think I can force it, but I can't get the "j" part of the rub rail up and attached to the deck lip because the deck and hull are so tight over about 20".

Second, I repaired a number of cracks on the deck lip (mostly where the rub rail have rivet holes) by glassing the back, then filling the front. All those repairs are now too thick for the "j" part of the rub rail to fit under.

I decided to go ahead and get the deck painted anyways, hoping solutions to these problems will present themselves before I start trying to put new rub rail on.

Frank

Did it outside this afternoon with a drip & run checker (my oldest son). Lot easier to do this stuff in the daylight then in my garage! She's coming along, but I still don't know how I'm going to get the rub rail on her.

Frank

After a crazy week of not being able to get at the deck, I got it sanded baby cheek smooth over the last couple of days, cleaned real well this a.m., and ready for another coat of primer once I get home today.

Frank

These pics are all going to look the same as the other ones, but suffice it to say she's coming out good. I'm hoping after wet sanding later today that this is it for primer. If I sand into through the primer in any spots, I will just touch them up and be done with it. I need to move on!

I had small bubbles all over the second coat. I don't know if it's because I didn't wait long enough after the earlier coat (28 hours) or if it was too cold (50-55 degrees), but they seem to be just in the surface coat. You can see in the first pic on the port side of the bow where I played with a few of them with my fingernail.

I used a different technique here for these two coats. First I wiped the deck down with Interlux Brushing Liquid (333) hours before priming. Then I mixed my primer with 10% 333 to thin it out. I used a high quality Purdy brush to prime it.

Mixing the 333 into the primer is simply easier that wiping 333 with your left hand, then priming over it with your right (or vice versa depending on what hand you are). Some of it for me is just physical - I'm having problems with my left shoulder.

I found the bristle type brush to handle inside and outside corners better than the foam brushes I had been using. Much less fooling around with catching an edge of paint on the inside and outside corners, which seemed to be a major problem with foam brushing.

I'd like to thank those of you who have offered specific suggestions and assistance. I really appreciate it.

More to come...

Frank

Spent about 3 hours wet sanding with 320. Need to touch up a few spots with primer, lightly wet sand them, then lightly wet sand everything to 400. Need to move ahead to top coat.

My thanks to Heather and Doug for their help and suggestions.

Frank

Looking good Frank!

Looks like your getting close Frank, ataboy!

I don't mean to be critical, but those headers on the hood of your wife's car are supposed to go UNDER the hood buddy! LOL Just kidding, I know you've gotta be beat down tired and sore. Hope you have a great evening.

Thanks Doug & Mark!

Those headers came of my hot rod this morning Mark, got sanded, cleaned and 3 coats of high heat silver, same stuff that's on the powerhead of my '63 Merc 1000. And that is NOT my wife's car, that is my old dead Aveo. Long story.

I had a full day, and Mark is correct - I AM beat down and sore. Primer touch up is waiting for tomorrow. No way I could do it tonight.

Frank

I figured the headers went on the hot rod, they look good bud! We used to use VHT, and for the first fire up just run the motor until you smell paint, then shut her off and let 'em cool. The heat cycle seemed to help "cure" the paint so it would last longer. I'm sure you already knew that.

My apologies to Minister of Finance, Gail's is in the garage beside the Power Cat, right!? Thought I remembered seeing something NICE in there in one of the pics.

Hoping you have good weather tomorrow for the touch-up buddy, proud of you for knowing "when to say when"!

I'm curing the headers for 7 days (per the can's instructions) before I install them Mark. If I had time yesterday I would have put them back on and done what you suggested, but there just wasn't time, plus I don't have my new gaskets yet.

Yes, the Minister of Finance's car ('08 Outback) is in the garage while my poor truck suffers outdoors. That won't be going on too much longer.

Touch up is tonight. I have a meeting in Albany tomorrow night, so figured no rush this a.m., wouldn't do me any good anyways. I may do the first touch up tonight, then a second larger touch up Wednesday, then wet sand, wash and maybe get a topcoat on Thursday.

Enjoy your day sir!

Frank

Frank. SHOOT IT! SHOOT IT!...BEFORE IT GETS AWAY!!!!

One more day of sitting in the driveway won't hurt the Ford.

Shoot it now and DON'T over criticize your work.

Bernie

Thanks Bernie, just bear with me. I have taken heart from some of your comments, and am working at being less compulsive. It's hard when you're me. Heck, I used to park outside all the time, just now I have a new truck, want to park inside. It's coming, sometime in the next week or two.

Actually, all this is brush work because my temporary paint booth is a long way from being done. I figured if I could get a couple coats of topcoat on, maybe I could work on getting my garage set up to spray the final coats. My goal is to have the paint done by end-of-the-month. Heck, boat launch docks aren't even in yet around here. Get the deck done, rub rail will be lots of fun, then glass the interior seam and start rigging. Goal is to be done by...

Ah, I'm not gonna jinx myself.

Frank

For what it's worth. It's maybe 55 in my garage. Hope I can wet sand it with 320 tomorrow afternoon and do a 2nd coat. Took just under 200ml of paint, thinned 5%.

Frank

Great Frank! The principle is the same brush or spray, don't over criticize. Sand LIGHTLY just to scuff, not to remove flaws like brushmarks. After you have the paint thick enough to 'color sand', then work on brushmarks and flaws. DON'T SAND THROUGH! Better a small flaw than more coats more sanding more coats more sanding....

If you use 320 go real easy, I'd prolly use 400 and I'd still be nervous....

wow frank you sure have my undivided attention and im jelous,lol,you have definatly put your heart and soul into this project,and you will have a fantastic boat to show for it,kudos frank great job ,as for me the sunray is on the back burner im now building the wife a new front porch,finaly got the footer dug and now its raining.
i would rather be working on the boat like you,i admire your tenacity frank ,keep at it buddy.

That's funny John! I need to get the boat done so I can build an 8 X 12 greenhouse for Gail. I got most of the stuff I need, got the sod removed (by hand - we don't have a backhoe) from where it's going to go, need to buy some gravel to put it on an 8" bed. It's really for next year. That and a base for the hot tub. And a concrete floor in our little pole barn...

Thanks for the compliment on the Power Cat John. She's coming along. It continues to be an experience!

Bernie, I got 400 and finer sandpaper, so I'll do that. I was going to sand to remove brush marks, and will not do that now. Thanks for the tips.

Enjoy the weekend fellers!

Frank

Looks like it's coming along nicely Frank, I'm so glad for you! I don't know squat about painting, but have been watching and reading others advise as you learn. It's been a long hard trip, I know, but it's going to turn out great, I just "feel" it.

Thanks Mark, I appreciate it. Let's just say the closer I get to "done" the more suspicious I become. You know, like "now what?!?" We'll see how it turns out. I'll keep y'all posted.

Frank

PC1000 wrote:

Bernie, I got 400 and finer sandpaper, so I'll do that. I was going to sand to remove brush marks, and will not do that now. Thanks for the tips.

Enjoy the weekend fellers!

Frank

My theory is you only want to create micro scratches for the next coat to 'bite' in to. Kinda like 'breaking the glaze' when honing cylinders. Build it up thick enough with subsequent coats that you can sand the LAST coat smooth without sanding through.

Meanwhile, my lower unit is back at the shop getting re-sealed. I had to have a new bearing carrier installed last year and it looks like they didn't replace the shifter shaft seal and guess what, gray milkshake. So I'm off the water for a while again.

Bernie

Sounds good Bernie, I'm gonna give it a try.

Man, bad news on the LU. Did you take it back to the same folks that "fixed" it? I hope they're doing it for gratis, and getting it in and out the same day! What are you running for power?

Good luck!

Frank

Looking good Frank!

PC1000 wrote:

Sounds good Bernie, I'm gonna give it a try.

Man, bad news on the LU. Did you take it back to the same folks that "fixed" it? I hope they're doing it for gratis, and getting it in and out the same day! What are you running for power?

Good luck!

Frank

Naw not too bad news. This guy works for the same boat dealer as my son and I get a real deal, parts for cost and I have sneak and pay off some of his tool bill to the Matco guy because he won't let me pay him for his labor. It's prolly for the best, I'd be at the lake WAY too much...It's a 1970 1350 short shaft and theres only a couple of guys I'd have work on it.

When you get it painted you'll be surprised how quick and how satisfying rigging will be! (If you don't over stress about it! LOL! )

Bernie

Sounds like you'll be on the water in no time Bernie. Cool.

Whadya mean, "overstress"? I'm already stressing about how to get my control cables and gas to the motor so it looks cool, you know, like Dick Davis and those guys do? What do they use, wet&dry vacuum hose, lol? Plus the wiring has to be very neat, correct colors and all. I completely wired an old ski boat years ago, and wired my hot rod. This boat should be simpler than the ski boat I did.

My real stressful problem will be getting the rub rail on. I think I got it figured out, but the deck is not sitting down just nice and easy over the hull. It's got to be forced a bit a few places, so it means a number of people working in concert. So besides the paint, rub rail is on my mind a lot, as it is next up. Once the rub rail is on, then I get to glass the interior seam. Not difficult, just uncomfortable and messy.

I got high watt halogen lamps bow and stern of the boat, and a little radiant heater with a fan blowing on the bow. Got the garage up from 55 to a bit over 60 the past few hours.

Enjoy your day Bernie. I got my hands full!

Frank

Just a thought...would it not make sense to wrestle the deck back together with the hull before you work on final paint? I'd be concerned with marring up the paint if you're anticipating forcing the thing together.

The forcing will be by hand Russ, no need for clamps. We'll get a few machine screws in at problem points, then do the rest.

Frank

All I can say is I wish I would have stayed with the Rustoleum marine enamel. It went on much better than this Interlux stuff does, no matter what I do. Plus I think I will continue to have compatibility problems from switching paint types. No turning back now. I just hope it works out.

Frank

F - It looks great from here. Let the marine paint guys paint your boat, not the metal paint guys. I sure wish you didn't stress so much about something you've done a really nice job on. The only person you need to please is you. Although Rustoleum was half the price of Interlux, you get what you pay for. I am, always will be, an Interlux fan. B

Well Brian, if I got what I paid for, the Interlux would be 1/2 the price of the Rustoleum. Both the Interlux primer and topcoat have produced lots of air bubbles all over that I did not have with the Rustoleum marine enamel. I tried everything I could to get rid of the bubbles (wiping 333 on, using foam brushes, then using good bristle brushes, mixing 333 with the paint, etc.), but no luck. If it's from a compatibility problem, more reason I never should have used it. By the way, the Rustoleum marine enamel is for fiberglass boats.

I understand you're a big fan of Interlux, but my only error with the Rustoleum marine enamel was not sanding between coats. If I ever "do" another boat, you can bet it will not be with Interlux (at least the Brightsides stuff), and you can bet I will NOT change paint systems in the middle of a job. The stress at this point is doing something over that may or may not work out. We'll see.

Frank

Well F, sorry for all the problems you're having. I suspect you're right about the switching horses in mid-stream. I can't even remember why you changed paints it's been so long. Why did you change from Rustoleum to Brightsides? Every one of us that works on these things likes what we like. Sort of like Ford or Chevy. Again, I hope it works out for you. B